NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 8:00a on 04/02/20 - Temperature: 39.6 °F - Wind speed: 8.0 mph - Wind chill: 36.0 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.503 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 63 %
IceCON 0. Minimal ice available for the hard core and mixed aficionados!
0 out of a possible 5
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September 14, 2017

Hi Folks,

I was out on Star Island in the Isle Of Shoals all weekend and as always it was a wonderful experience. If you've never been out there, I highly recommend it. I go there this time every year and believe it or not I always get in a little climbing, besides playing 4 days of almost constant music. I simply don't know how much better a vacation can be.

Here's a few pictures that will give you an idea:

There is really nothing quite like bouldering on these fantastic outcroppings right by the ocean. I look forward to a couple of hours doing this every year.

I was hoping to get out for a climb on something here in the Valley when I returned, but it was almost not to be. None of my regular partners were available and I had almost given up, when I got a text message from my friend Matt Bowman. He and his lovely wife Jenna were planning to climb Thin Air Thursday morning and I basically invited myself along. [wry grin] Amazingly there was no one on the cliff at all and we ran up the climb in good time. I rarely follow climbs and it was a total blast to play the "third client". We topped out, traversed over to the Saigon anchors and rapped. It doesn't get a whole lot better than this.

BTW - tho it has been warm, and will be so through the rest of the week, the weather is definitely changing. I'm seeing the leaves in places starting to turn and it's clear that fall is starting to peek over the horizon.

I received a very disturbing email just before I went away on my vacation regarding anchors. according to the person who sent it, he has found some anchors that apparently have been deliberately made unsafe. I have no way to verify this information, but regardless it brings up something that we all should do on a regular basis, which is examine any and all fixed anchors BEFORE we clip in or rappel from them. While I have never personally seen any that were sabotaged, I have seen many that were basically worn out or damaged by animals. Simply assuming that an anchor is good, is a bad idea - most especially when the outcome of an anchor failing can be catastrophic.

FWIW I received the information in a .DOCX file, which I was unable to convert to something more useable than a JPG. Regardless, here it is. Make of it what you will...
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 27, 2020
The ice is done and I am no longer issuing reports. I had someone text me personally asking about the status of ice in the Ravines. Even if I know something, I am no longer going to answer those questions. IMO it is irresponsible to be climbing, other than maybe on a top-rope at this time. I know it's beautiful out there right now. I GET IT! But climbing is generally a group, or at least duo, activity. Everyone touches everything. And if I touch something of yours, that means I have touched everything that you have come in contact with for the past 14 days. I love climbing and the group dynamic as much as anyone, but climbing right now is simply not worth the risk. You simply cannot guarantee that you are 100% safe and put everyone in jeopardy.
Huntington Ravine OUT  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route OUT Click to see route picture.
Dracula OUT Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

In case you had forgotten, the 25 annual Ice Fest is coming up. Mark February 2-4 on your calendars and stay tuned. It's going to be a good one!

No rain to speak of and unsurprisingly the trails are bone dry. I've been doing a variety of loops lately and one of them takes me over to the Redstone Quarry. If you haven't ridden there, I highly recommend it. It's a beautiful and unique place with some amazing artifacts of a different time. Here's a picture:

It's hard to imagine it, but I think for the most part the bug season, even the mosquitoes, is pretty much done for. That is unless 3 days of rain gives those pesky blood suckers a place to breed again. I'll see what we get after the weekend and perhaps make a downgrade. At least I hope that is the case.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

There is no difference between religion and politics. Both involve lies and fanatical beliefs that generaly defy logic... Just like rock climbing.
Dave Schuller
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