NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 5:29p on 01/19/20 - Temperature: 22.0 °F - Wind speed: 5.0 mph - Wind chill: 18.0 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.594 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Rapidly - Humidity: 48 %
IceCON 1. Climbs just coming in or only in upper elevations like Ravines.
1 out of a possible 5
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February 1, 2018

Hi Folks,

ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST, ICE FEST!

25 years of great Ice Fest's folks. It's going to be a great one and I hope you can make it up here for it.

THIS WEEK IN CLIMBING
: I went out on Tuesday morning with Matty Bowman to climb Dropline. I wanted to climb the whole thing, single push, using a 70 meter rope. I've done this a couple of times before and with a somewhat skinny rope it works well. Certainly better than going to the tree and backtracking on the rock traverse! The first section up to the pillar was very thin, but OK. A couple of 3' - no gear spots, but that goes with the territory. I did wish I'd had a couple of those "super stubble" screws tho! ;-)

So I got right up to the pillar and what had looked good from below, didn't look so good to me. The column was very fluted and had that milky white look that means it's airated & baked. I made a couple of moves up on the left side but everything that I hit crumbled and I didn't think I could get any good screws 'till 30' above me! I decided it wasn't right for me that day and bailed to the tree on the left. Of course some of you young bucks & bucketes would probably send it anyway...

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180201/Dropline_1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180201/Dropline_2.jpg

There's a bit of video on FB if you're interested.

After taking pictures this morning George Hurley and I did this fun curtain that's about 50' right of Elephant Head Gully. I first did it 21 years ago with my friend Yuki Fujita. It's a steep curtain that's often quite thin. I did it a couple of years ago with jeff Lea and art was really thin, This time it was a bit thicker than normal, but not enough that it would take full length 10 cm screws. Regardless it's fun and worth the effort.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180201/EH_right_0.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180201/EH_right_1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180201/EH_right_2.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180201/EH_right_3.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180201/EH_right_4.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180201/EH_right_5.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180201/EH_right_6.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180201/EH_right_7.jpg

PS sling the tree as high up as you can get it. You'll know what I mean when you do it! ;-)
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 16, 2020
These pictures and today's Report is actually from 1/15, Wednesday. I knew it was going to be snowing almost all day today and I would not be able to take any pictures, so I went up to the Notch yesterday, figuring that 24 hours would make very little difference. I was pleasantly surprised at how much ice survived the 3 days of record temps and rain. In spite of everything the weather threw at us, there is still ice to climb and while the Frankenstein Amphitheater looks even worse, there are still options. This is a time to be cautious due to possible delamination, but if you want to get out and climb, you can. Just be aware that the next several days will be VERY cold, so dress appropriately and beware of what will likely be some very brittle ice.
Huntington Ravine options - beware avalanche danger  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route OK but top is a mess again Click to see route picture.
Dracula kind of OK but top out bad! Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Of course the regular Thursday ice pix are on NEClimbs.com and Facebook, but here are some of the other pix.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180201/AngelCakes.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180201/BlackCrack.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180201/CathedralLedge.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180201/Diagonal_Mordor.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180201/Frankenstein.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180201/LHMonkeyWrench.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180201/Repentance_Remission.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180201/SnotRocket.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180201/SuperGoofer.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180201/Unicorn.jpg

VALLEY CYCLING:
Riding on the Marshall trails was great on Wednesday. Things were firm and there was just enough crust to let me ride with out studded tires. All the snowmobile trails are in great shape, and you can likely ride your regular MTB bike right now.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180201/Bike.jpg


SUBSCRIBE AND SUPPORT:
Do you like reading this Report? Do you use it in the winter to help make your decisions about where, when and what to climb? Then please consider making a small donation to support the site. Just click the link below:

http://www.neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=donation_fundraiser

Of course you can also contribute via check or money order if you like. Make it out to NEClimbs and send it right here:

NEClimbs, 92 Bow Lane, North Conway, NH 03860

Thank you once again for your support...

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Breaking into a new area of climbing while remaining safe is probably sort of like practicing religion. There's no best way to do it, and if you screw up, you're going down...
Nate Beckwith
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