NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 3:29a on 01/23/20 - Temperature: 11.3 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 11.3 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.224 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 88 %
IceCON 2. Some trade routes are climbable, even in lower elevations.
2 out of a possible 5
Mooney Mountain Guidesthe American Alpine ClubNorthEast MountaineeringThe ACCESS Fund, Protect America's ClimbingInternational Mountain Climbing School
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February 15, 2018

Hi Folks,

It's been a busy week and it's not going to slack off. A bunch of climbing, band rehearsals and music performances, plus a great bike ride up Hurricane Mountain Road. All in all it's the kind of week you want to do when the weather is changing to warm! It was 44 in the Valley on Thursday, 37 on Friday morning and it will get warmer on Friday, before it cools off at night. [YUCK] Hang on folks it may be a bumpy ride...

I climbed last week on the Unicorn on Cathedral Ledge with area Petal rep Dave Karl. I got to try out the new Ergonomic tools with the superb new Pureice picks. These are great tools and the picks are amazing folks. It's the first tool that may actually get me to abandon my vintage Ergo's! Believe me, that's saying something. Note that this isn't the normal Unicorn climb. That one usually comes in at the corner. For some reason it didn't make it this year, but some other cool stuff did. This climb was probably 50-60' high and close to vertical. Very sweet...

Here's a couple of pix:

I went out today (Thursday) with the Bagel-meister (Bagels Plus) himself, Frank Dahlmeyer. He wanted to do Repentance, so that's what we did. I led the first two pitches as one and he did the chockstone on the left. It was POURING water and I was totally soaked at the end. I wish we'd brought the 70 meter rope so I could have belayed at the new newish anchor 20' higher tho. It would have been a lot more comfortable.

More pix:

I got up at 5 AM today to practice for my gigs and then took pics and climbed, so I was beat after Repentance. Enjoy your weekend and climb safe folks...
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 16, 2020
These pictures and today's Report is actually from 1/15, Wednesday. I knew it was going to be snowing almost all day today and I would not be able to take any pictures, so I went up to the Notch yesterday, figuring that 24 hours would make very little difference. I was pleasantly surprised at how much ice survived the 3 days of record temps and rain. In spite of everything the weather threw at us, there is still ice to climb and while the Frankenstein Amphitheater looks even worse, there are still options. This is a time to be cautious due to possible delamination, but if you want to get out and climb, you can. Just be aware that the next several days will be VERY cold, so dress appropriately and beware of what will likely be some very brittle ice.
Huntington Ravine options - beware avalanche danger  
Repentance building well Click to see route picture.
Standard Route OK but top is a mess again Click to see route picture.
Dracula kind of OK but top out bad! Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Of course the regular Thursday ice pix are on and Facebook, but here are some of the other pix.

I haven't ridden too much lately because of the snow and because I hadn't put on my studded tired. [shucks] That changed on Wednesday morning and I took them out for a run up Hurricane Mountain Road and the Black Cap Trail. I ran out of time and didn't get to the top, only to the kiosk, halfway up the trail. Still it was a great ride on a balmy day and I worked up a sweat. Highly recommended folks!

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Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

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Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

Climbing for speed records will probably become more popular, a mania which has just begun. Climbers climb not just to see how fast and efficiently they can do it, but far worse, to see how much faster and more efficiently they are than a party which did the same climb a few days before. The climb becomes secondary, no more important than a racetrack. Man is pitted against man.
Yvon Chouinard
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