NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 11:29p on 07/04/22 - Temperature: 57.8 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 57.8 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.976 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 49 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
International Mountain Climbing SchoolThe ACCESS Fund, Protect America's ClimbingMount Washington Valley Climbers CooperativeNorthEast MountaineeringInternational Mountain Equipment
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April 12, 2018

Hi Folks,

I know that last week I said that would be the last Ice report, and it was. That said, there still is a bit of ice here & there in the lower elevations. I don't know how long it will last, but I figured that I better grab some while I could. So text messages flew back & forth between Matty Bowman and me and we settled on Dracula on Wednesday.

We met in Glen at 8:45 and got to Frankenstein in short order. Bill King was out clearing a smidgen of snow from his driveway so we chatted for a few minutes. Among other things he's the local Fire Warden and he said that in spite of the snow, the ground was actually quite dry. It was his observation, which I agree with, that the snow is evaporating rather than actually melting. Look around, there's hardly any mud out there. He is predicting that there will be some fires here & there before too long. Take that as gospel folks!

We walked down the tracks, which in many places were devoid of snow. There was a lot of large debris at the base of the trestle slab, including pieces of a tree from up on the cliff! On etc way back there was even more, and we even saw some stuff come off in the sun. It was a reminder to be aware of what's above you, especially in the sun!

We geared up on the tracks & headed up. About halfway up the hill we are surprised to see another party come across in front of us from the right. We hadn't seen them pass us, nor any other cars in the Arethusa lot, so they must have come uphill from the road past & below Dracula. They were planning on doing the left side and me the right, so all was good. Here's a little video of my lead, thanks to master climber & video guy Matty. It was running a little water, the ice was OK and all in all it was a great morning.

And a few stills...
I went back to the Notch this morning to ride my fat tire bike on Mt Clinton Road so I took the camera along. Here's a few pictures. I'm not going to predict what may or may not be climbable, especially with the rain and warm temps that's supposed to be coming through.

I've ridden a bit here & there over the past week or so, mainly on snowmobile trails that are still well packed out. This morning I rode Mt Clinton Road at the top of Crawford Notch all the way to the Base Road. I was thinking about going up Jefferson Notch but my phone died and I decided against it. Regardless it was GREAT riding. I may try Zealand or Bear Notch on Saturday if it hasn't rained too much.


Friends of the Ledges is a volunteer organization dedicated to the stewardship of local climbing areas and to preserving the historical tradition of climbing in the eastern White Mountains of New Hampshire and Maine. Highlights from the past couple years include replacement of 93 bolts and partnering with the Access Fund on major trail work and the opening of Band M Ledge. Plans for the future include additional trail work at Cathedral Ledge and continued bolt replacement including a couple popular lines on Whitehorse Ledge.

Friends of the Ledges can't continue this work without your support and our early 2018 fundraising goal is $3,000. Please visit our website to learn more and donate:

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Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

You put up with the grind of work or school as long as you can or is required. But then, one day, the phone rings one too many times, or the line at the gas pumps seems unending. The air smells bad. The food foul. 'Enough of this' you cry. You grab your ice tools and are gone.
Duane Raleigh
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