NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 6:00a on 07/01/22 - Temperature: 55.7 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 55.7 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.918 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 74 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
the American Alpine ClubMount Washington Valley Climbers CooperativeFriends Of The LedgesEquinox Guiding Service LLCNorthEast Mountaineering
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July 26, 2018

Hi Folks,

Frustration is definitely rearing it's ugly head right now. Rain day after rain day is not at all what I would expect at the end of July up here in the northlands. While it does happen on occasion, these extended rainy spells usually happen in late May or June. About 15 years ago we had a stretch where it rained every day in the month of June. But that's a rarity.

And yes, though I am bitching about it, we certainly do need the rain. Those who keep track of such things, tell us that we are darn close to drought conditions. We had that going on last year, and it was really a bad thing. The rivers were low, blueberries weren't plump, everyone had to water their gardens instead of depending on the rain, and there were lots and lots of brush fires. Prior to this rain, we were headed in the same direction. I've gotten a couple of notices from my community well manager asking that everyone reduce their water consumption where possible. I have friends who have tubed down the Saco and ended up abandoning their journey in the middle because it was so shallow in places that they had to get out and walk! Now THAT'S unusual.

Consecutive days of rain make it hard for the climbing schools to get people out on the rock too. There are very few if any sheltered places to climb on a rainy day, especially for moderate climbers. I know that many would prefer to not take reservations than to have people go out, get skunked and come back unhappy. Sure, there are a few places that overhang like Sundown or dry fairly quickly, like the Ethereal Buttress, but they aren't for everyone. Often a hike will be a better choice. At least that gets you outside.

My jazz gig at Weir's Beach last Sunday was cancelled due to rain and I have one on a boat cruise out of Wolfeboro tonight that I'm thinking might not happen. [SIGH] However, the current prediction is for the weekend to be decent. I'd really like to climb on Saturday and/or Sunday so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Maybe you could too.
In June, long-time AMC volunteer Emmett Lyman was injured in a climbing-related accident on an unclimbed peak in Alaska's Lake Clark National Park. He sustained serious injury to his head and neck, leaving him significantly paralyzed with a C6-C7 spinal cord injury and a traumatic brain injury. 

Emmett is a special person in the Boston AMC climbing community, bringing so many friends and new climbers together with his warmth and incredible kindness. Please consider helping us support him through the fundraiser set up to help defray the significant costs of his medical care. For more information on Emmett's recovery and to make a donation, visit his GoFundMe page using the link below. The AMC Boston Chapter Mountaineering Committee and the friends and family of Emmett are grateful for your generosity and support of Emmett!

NOTE - These restrictions will be expiring next Wednesday. So only a few more days left.

Cathedral Ledge (north end only, right of Remission) in Bartlett, NH (Note: this posting begins on 5/25)
Eagle Cliff (south end of mountain) in Franconia, NH
Frankenstein Cliff (front cliff only) in Harts Location, NH
Holts Ledge in Lyme, NH
Painted Walls in Albany, NH
Rumney Rocks (Summit Cliff and nearby) in Rumney, NH
Woodchuck Ledge (right half of cliff) in Albany, NH (Note: this posting begins on 5/25)

Peregrines are present at a number of additional cliffs where no closures have been posted because recreational use is minimal. Climbers are advised to alter plans, and report the incident, if you encounter aggressive falcons during a climb at any NH site.

All areas will be reopened by August 1.

WOW - the riding is amazing everywhere here in the Valley and beyond. Trails are clear and dry, close to perfection. Some friends were up at Moose Brook in Gorham, near Berlin, the other day and raved. Some others were at Kingdom Trails and said the same. Get out there on your bike and enjoy it...

While the bugs are pretty minimal, apparently the CDC has indicated that hey have found some mosquitoes here in NH that are carrying one of those nasty diseases like EEE or East Nile! So while there aren't that many bugs out there right now, I would recommend that you leave the Bug Dope in your pack, and use it sparingly to keep them at bay. None of us want to pick up something like that. Word to the wise...

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

This is a group of people I used to go walking with. (long pause) That's me on the left. (even longer pause) On the right is the woman I married, Audrey. (very long pause, speaker looks at shoes) Which just goes to show that danger lurks where you least expect it.
Don Whillans commenting on a B&W slide showing a group of smiling hikers
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