NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 12:30a on 03/22/19 - Temperature: 31.6 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 31.6 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.805 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Rapidly - Humidity: 71 %
IceCON 3. Ice generally available in the usual places, many climbs fat.
3 out of a possible 5
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S U B S C R I B E
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September 13, 2018

Hi Folks,

I'd really like to report that it's almost Fall and we're having some of that sweet Fall climbing weather here in the Valley. Unfortunately that's not exactly the case. We've had rainy, drizzly and generally damp weather for the past several days, and it looks just the same this morning. I have my fingers crossed that the weekend will be better since I'm not gigging this weekend and I want to go climbing!

PS I wrote the above Thursday morning, and just as I finished it, the sun came out! WOO WOO... It does look as if the weekend and early part of next week looks to be good. Still not that crisp clear sending weather that we all look forward to, but at least dry. I have several projects that I'm waiting to get on for some of those sweet Fall days. I know they're going to come, but it's hard waiting.

I was on Star Island, in the Isle Of Shoals, last weekend and the weather was cool and sunny. I always take my shoes and chalk bag with me to boulder on the rocks and cuts, and this weekend was no different. Unfortunately my phone ran out of charge so I didn't get any pictures. Plus there was a lot of music going on and I didn't get as much time as I would have liked. However, it was still a wonderful feeling to be climbing on very featured and solid rock right over the sea. It's something that I really look forward to every year at this time.

Unfortunately we all had to leave a day early due to weather coming in that would have precluded the ferry from running on Monday as planned. However, it's nothing like what it going on in the Carolinas right now. Sending hopeful and positive thoughts to all those folks including some dear friends in the path down there. This is no joke. Last year there was a hurricane that hit Florida right at the same time. I don't know what that has to say...

ICE FEST 2019:
Just a brief reminder that This years Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest is February 1-3. Put it on your schedule now. You don't want to miss it.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 21, 2019
It's been a wonderful ice season, but Spring is officially here folks. Thus the sun is strong so it's warm during the day, but it's cold at night. And of course that means that climbs in the full sun are crap, but anything in the shade can still be good and maybe even building a bit. Sure, Standard Route is still massive, but the ice isn't all that good IMO. I was up there today and thought the ice above the cave was punky! Climbs in the reflector oven that is the Amphitheater are a mess now and honestly in my mind it's not a smart place to be. We're entering a time when the best climbing will be up high in the Ravine. And of course the longer days make it a great time to be up there. From here on out I'm only going to be posting pictures of things I think are in climbable shape, and that's a dwindling supply.
Huntington Ravine IN mostly  
Repentance OUT Click to see route picture.
Standard Route climbable, but getting punky Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN - bring your snorkle Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

UPDATE ON RINES HILL ACCESS:
I've been there several times and wrote about it recently. Every time I've climbed there I've accessed it by parking at a small pullout off Rines Road, off Rt 28. I have been advised that two different people have found unsigned notes on their vehicles stating that the access via the clearcut is on private property, probably from the owner of the new house on the same side of the road! George has told me that another way to access the cliff is the following:

1) drive to Knights Pond Road
2) park on Rines Hill Road and walk up Knights Pond Road
3) look for an old gate on the left about 60 yards or so up the road
4) follow flagging tape and an old trail across the ridge to the cliff

This should obviously be the access from now on. Apparently it only adds 5 minutes to the hike. Rimes Hill is a very nice little climbing area and worth your time.

I was also told that someone found some gear that was left behind on the very easy climb Dike Step. Let me know if it is yours and I will put you in touch with the person who found it.

VALLEY CYCLING:
While the trails are in generally good shape, just a couple of trees down here & there, a couple of daze of rain has left the roots and rocks slippery. I'd also be pretty cautions on bridges like the long one on the Electric Loop which is made with PT. It's going to take a day or two for things to dry out enough to be comfortable on those off-camber roots on some of the single-track out there. It might be a good time to do Town Hall Road, Sawyer River Road, Rob Brook or the like. It's a pretty nice way to get 10-15 miles in on a drizzly day.

INSTANT BUG REPORT - BUGCon 1:
Not much in the way of bugs except in the evening around sunset when the mosquitoes come out. Then you'll wish you had that bug dope in your pack!

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Have fun and climb safe,


Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


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