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Well, weather-wise it's been an eventful week. But after all, it's still early December and not even officially winter yet, so what can we realistically expect? With lower-elevation ice actually available to be climbed, I'm actually feeling pretty good about the season so far. Plus, even tho we had a veritable deluge a couple of days ago, it's going to be quite cold over there weekend so things should build somewhat quickly.
That said, you really do need to be careful out there right now. With all the rain and 2 days of unseasonably warm temps, what's left of the ice can be thin and very delaminated. I would really scrutinize whatever route you are considering, bring your stubbies and protect early and often.
I climbed the middle of Standard up to the cave this morning. It was 30 degrees at Frankenstein at 11, and even warmer back at the car at 12:30! Even tho it was that warm, the water wasn't running as much as I expected. Go figure... Still the ice was plastic and thick enough as long as I stayed in the middle. If you're a Facebook subscriber I posted a little video up there that describes things. Otherwise here's a few pictures:
THE 2019 FUNDRAISER:
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The time and expense of the running and maintaining NEClimbs.com and putting out The White Mountain Report continue all year. But in the winter I put in at least 5 hours every Thursday taking the pictures, processing them, writing the Report, posting the pix on NEClimbs and FaceBook and putting out the email newsletter Report. It's a lot. PLEASE REMEMBER, it's your contribution that makes this newsletter and the NEClimbs web site viable.
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Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
iffy
Standard Route
GREAT conditions
Dracula
IN & very fat
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
Of course there is ice to be had and here are some pictures taken today:
VALLEY CYCLING:
While the regular trails aren't packed out yet, there are places to ride. Since the snow has packed down places like Whittaker Woods, Sawyer River Road, the Peaked hiking trail all are fairly reasonable. You might need studded tires tho, as in many places there is ice underneath the fluffy snow.
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
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Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
