NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 6:29p on 02/16/20 - Temperature: 26.1 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 26.1 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.931 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 67 %
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
NorthEast Mountaineeringthe American Alpine ClubMooney Mountain GuidesThe ACCESS Fund, Protect America's ClimbingInternational Mountain Equipment
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February 14, 2019

Hi Folks,

The IceCON rating is back to a 5, we got 7-12 inches of heavy snow and the temps aren't all that cold. So what's not to like? Not much really, as long as you don't have to rake or shovel your roof. HA... But the ice is in great shape as long as you can safely get to it.

So here in the Valley by Cathedral Ledge I got 7" or so on my back deck. probably a bit more actually since we had a little drizzle at the end of the event. From what I saw up in the Notch this morning, they got close to a foot.

I've been starting to worry about where I'm going to put it when the big snows come in March, as they usually do. The parking in a lot of places is becoming problematic. You can't pull down anywhere near the North End of Cathedral on the Ledge Road. On the weekends it's really becoming a long walk in. The DOT is doing the minimal on West Side Road and frankly I wouldn't even consider parking by the Barking Dog or Black Pudding.

When I went by the Texaco lot at 8:45 it wasn't plowed out, but it was on the way back around 10:30. I drove all the way up to the Frankenstein upper lot this morning and chatted with Bill King for a bit. He said that the DOY came up and sanded this morning, but didn't put the plow down on the road. It's really becoming quite narrow now and I would seriously recommend parking at the lower lot, which is plowed out, rather than along the road. PLUS, if everyone parks along the road so it's really narrow, if there is a problem and an ambulance is called it MAY NOT be able to get up the hill to the tracks. WORD!!!!

The banks on the side of the road at the Dry River Campground where I take the Amphitheater photos are above my head now. Scrambling up there and walking back the normal 60' or so I usually do is becoming problematic. SHEESH! Fortunately they are still plowing out the Ripley Falls/AT lot where we park for Shoestring as well as the ones on both sides of the road at Willies. The lot at the top of the Notch was pretty well plowed, but the one down by the Silver Cascade is not. I don't know what their plan is, but I gotta figure this is going to get worse before it gets better!

And just because you're just out poking around some trade route on Cathedral Ledge, a gully on Mt Willard, Shoestring or even stuff you'd never worry about at Frankenstein, that doesn't mean it's always safe. Well known local guide Marc Chauvin was headed up to do Repentance yesterday and the little snow slope right below the climb let loose. Here's what he had to say about it:

"As I approached the base of Repentance today the short slope slid. The crown line extended 100+ feet in each direction."

Needless to say that would have gotten MY attention! I shared his little video on the NEClimbs FB page. If you're on FB check it out.

Just be careful folks, that's all I can say...
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 20, 2020
Pretty much everything you want to climb down here in the lower elevations is in pretty darn good shape, including almost everything in the Amphitheater for a change. Sure Welcome To Machine hasn't come in, but Dropline is getting done a lot. And for those who want BIG, a drive to Willoughby will give you all the big ice you could ask for. Now is definitely time to climb ice, so get on it friends. Just be aware of the snow...
Huntington Ravine snow snow  
Repentance tough call  
Standard Route excellent Click to see route picture.
Dracula excellent Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Here are a few interesting pictures taken this morning:

As always the climb-by-climb pics are on Facebook and

Well, it was GREAT a couple of days ago. The Marshall trails were groomed and all of the snowmobile trails were packed out well. But that all changed with this last round of snowfall. However, I noticed that the RR track trail in Bartlett had been groomed this morning and spotted the groomer itself coming down from Sawyer River Road as I was going up toward Frankenstein. If it gets cold all of the groomed snow machine trails should be good. Plus of course there is always Whittaker Woods.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

Alcohol, firearms and a 4 wheel drive can go a long ways towards making a rain day into a fun rest day.
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