NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 5:59a on 03/23/19 - Temperature: 35.5 °F - Wind speed: 3.0 mph - Wind chill: 34.8 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.106 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Rapidly - Humidity: 68 %
IceCON 3. Ice generally available in the usual places, many climbs fat.
3 out of a possible 5
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S U B S C R I B E
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February 14, 2019

Hi Folks,

The IceCON rating is back to a 5, we got 7-12 inches of heavy snow and the temps aren't all that cold. So what's not to like? Not much really, as long as you don't have to rake or shovel your roof. HA... But the ice is in great shape as long as you can safely get to it.

So here in the Valley by Cathedral Ledge I got 7" or so on my back deck. probably a bit more actually since we had a little drizzle at the end of the event. From what I saw up in the Notch this morning, they got close to a foot.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190214/Snowfall.jpg

I've been starting to worry about where I'm going to put it when the big snows come in March, as they usually do. The parking in a lot of places is becoming problematic. You can't pull down anywhere near the North End of Cathedral on the Ledge Road. On the weekends it's really becoming a long walk in. The DOT is doing the minimal on West Side Road and frankly I wouldn't even consider parking by the Barking Dog or Black Pudding.

When I went by the Texaco lot at 8:45 it wasn't plowed out, but it was on the way back around 10:30. I drove all the way up to the Frankenstein upper lot this morning and chatted with Bill King for a bit. He said that the DOY came up and sanded this morning, but didn't put the plow down on the road. It's really becoming quite narrow now and I would seriously recommend parking at the lower lot, which is plowed out, rather than along the road. PLUS, if everyone parks along the road so it's really narrow, if there is a problem and an ambulance is called it MAY NOT be able to get up the hill to the tracks. WORD!!!!

The banks on the side of the road at the Dry River Campground where I take the Amphitheater photos are above my head now. Scrambling up there and walking back the normal 60' or so I usually do is becoming problematic. SHEESH! Fortunately they are still plowing out the Ripley Falls/AT lot where we park for Shoestring as well as the ones on both sides of the road at Willies. The lot at the top of the Notch was pretty well plowed, but the one down by the Silver Cascade is not. I don't know what their plan is, but I gotta figure this is going to get worse before it gets better!

And just because you're just out poking around some trade route on Cathedral Ledge, a gully on Mt Willard, Shoestring or even stuff you'd never worry about at Frankenstein, that doesn't mean it's always safe. Well known local guide Marc Chauvin was headed up to do Repentance yesterday and the little snow slope right below the climb let loose. Here's what he had to say about it:

"As I approached the base of Repentance today the short slope slid. The crown line extended 100+ feet in each direction."

Needless to say that would have gotten MY attention! I shared his little video on the NEClimbs FB page. If you're on FB check it out.

Just be careful folks, that's all I can say...
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 21, 2019
It's been a wonderful ice season, but Spring is officially here folks. Thus the sun is strong so it's warm during the day, but it's cold at night. And of course that means that climbs in the full sun are crap, but anything in the shade can still be good and maybe even building a bit. Sure, Standard Route is still massive, but the ice isn't all that good IMO. I was up there today and thought the ice above the cave was punky! Climbs in the reflector oven that is the Amphitheater are a mess now and honestly in my mind it's not a smart place to be. We're entering a time when the best climbing will be up high in the Ravine. And of course the longer days make it a great time to be up there. From here on out I'm only going to be posting pictures of things I think are in climbable shape, and that's a dwindling supply.
Huntington Ravine IN mostly  
Repentance OUT Click to see route picture.
Standard Route climbable, but getting punky Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN - bring your snorkle Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Here are a few interesting pictures taken this morning:

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190214/Diagonal_Mordor.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190214/Diagonal.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190214/Repentance_Remission.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190214/Unicorn.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190214/CathedralLedge.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190214/ElephantHead_right.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190214/Frankenstein.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190214/HardRane.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190214/LHMonkeyWrench.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190214/MtWillard_upperTier.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190214/SnotRocket.jpg

As always the climb-by-climb pics are on Facebook and NEClimbs.com.

VALLEY CYCLING:
Well, it was GREAT a couple of days ago. The Marshall trails were groomed and all of the snowmobile trails were packed out well. But that all changed with this last round of snowfall. However, I noticed that the RR track trail in Bartlett had been groomed this morning and spotted the groomer itself coming down from Sawyer River Road as I was going up toward Frankenstein. If it gets cold all of the groomed snow machine trails should be good. Plus of course there is always Whittaker Woods.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Have fun and climb safe,


Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


009 had a crux dyno on it that will, by its very nature, eliminate 98% of the old ice climbers.
Stevie Haston
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