NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 2:30p on 03/22/19 - Temperature: 43.8 °F - Wind speed: 2.0 mph - Wind chill: 42.7 °F - Barometric pressure: 28.989 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Rapidly - Humidity: 100 %
IceCON 3. Ice generally available in the usual places, many climbs fat.
3 out of a possible 5
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S U B S C R I B E
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February 21, 2019

Hi Folks,

I am really starting to get stir-crazy right now. I've spent the past 6 days sitting in front of a computer monitor rewriting line after line of PHP code as a part of upgrades for some web sites that I have been supporting for 10+ years. I put it off as long as I could, but now as it comes down to the wire, I simply can't play until I get this done. SIGH But I'm gong to go nuts with ice climbing as soon as all this stuff is done. I'm pretty confident that there will still be plenty left to climb in a week. Fingers crossed...

So we're in a weather pattern where we're getting snow every 3-4 days. Good for the skiers, not so great for local home owners who have to deal with it. I'm into my 3rd round of roof-raking for the season, and it's almost time to get up on the roof and shovel. UGGH Of course that also means that it's getting annoying getting around out there. I have taken some short hikes in the area, and once you get off the well beaten paths, you're up to your crotch. Snowshoes are getting to be required paraphernalia for doing any kind of bushwhacking or the like. I'm going to start throwing mine in the back of the car just to have around.

A NOTE ABOUT THE REPORT:
On occasion I get some pushback about my observations and ratings. I think it's important to state that all of this is MY OPINION ONLY. I look at what's out there and I make an assessment based on the observations. When I say that something is IN or OUT, I am making that rating based on the general consensus rating, NOT what CAN be done by a VERY STRONG climber. The same goes for snow/avalanche conditions. I look at the snowfall, assess the conditions I see and read the daily avalanche report on mountwashingtonavalanchecenter.org. I am quite sure that people with large amounts of experience can manage the danger better than I could. And there is no question that I always stay on the conservative side. So, just saying this so you understand where the Report is coming from. I simply want everyone to be generally as safe as they can be ding a sport that's inherently unsafe. [wry grin]

CHECK YOUR GEAR:
I had a friend point out the other day that one of my slings had some thread pulling loose! I was using it as an "alpine style draw" and hadn't noticed. I guess I've had this set of slings for 5 or so years, but hasn't checked them carefully in a while. I'm not sure it would fall catastrophically, but why even worry about it. There was no sign that anything had happened to it, but if one's bad IMO it's time to replace 'em all. http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190220/Frayed_Sling.jpg

ACCIDENT ON CENTRAL GULLY:
The Forest Service has announced the death of a climber on Mount Washington. Jeremy Ullmann, 37, of Somerville, Mass., died Feb. 10 after a long, sliding fall in the Huntington Ravine area.

https://www.nhpr.org/post/climber-dies-after-fall-mount-washington?fbclid=IwAR3T9wZAogmdXE-jLMcd_STLUqhMvMEUbuGQN20k-nn1sMOYYzbHwKTq5Vc#stream/0
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 21, 2019
It's been a wonderful ice season, but Spring is officially here folks. Thus the sun is strong so it's warm during the day, but it's cold at night. And of course that means that climbs in the full sun are crap, but anything in the shade can still be good and maybe even building a bit. Sure, Standard Route is still massive, but the ice isn't all that good IMO. I was up there today and thought the ice above the cave was punky! Climbs in the reflector oven that is the Amphitheater are a mess now and honestly in my mind it's not a smart place to be. We're entering a time when the best climbing will be up high in the Ravine. And of course the longer days make it a great time to be up there. From here on out I'm only going to be posting pictures of things I think are in climbable shape, and that's a dwindling supply.
Huntington Ravine IN mostly  
Repentance OUT Click to see route picture.
Standard Route climbable, but getting punky Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN - bring your snorkle Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Here are a few interesting pictures taken this morning:

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190220/Diagonal.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190220/Repentance_Remission.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190220/Unicorn.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190220/CathedralLedge.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190220/ElephantHeadRight.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190220/Frankenstein.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190220/LHMonkeyWrench.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190220/MtWillard_UpperTier.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190220/SnotRocket.jpg

As always the climb-by-climb pics are on Facebook and NEClimbs.com.

VALLEY CYCLING:
Just when things get good, we get another round of snow. The best bet for fat bike riding is on groomed snowmobile trails, the occasional well packed hiking trail like Peaked and places like The Marshall Conservation trails when they are groomed. Of course you could go to the Kingdom Trails in Vermont if you want guarantees... HA

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Have fun and climb safe,


Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are naught without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; look well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end.
Edward Whymper, 1865, the first ascent of the Matterhorn
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