NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
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April 4, 2019

Hi Folks,

So here we are friends, for all practical purposes at the end of what has been unequivocally a GREAT ice season. Most likely one of the best in many years. Oh sure, you can eke out a bit more here & there; probably Dracula, The Money Wrench and Cleft for a few more days, Willies Slide, the Black Dike and of course there is always the Ravines. But for most of us, it's time to find some safe, dry and sunny rock and dream of dusty mountain bike trails.

I want to thank everyone who has supported the Ice Report and NEClimbs this year. It's been a lot of fun for me on so many levels. Of course the White Mountain Report will still come out every week, but with the emphasis on rock climbing and mountain biking, my two "other" passions. I have several interesting climbing projects that I've had my eye on that hopefully will come to fruition. I'm also hoping to get in at least one trip to the Gunks if I can talk George into heading down that way with me. Stay tuned...

THE STATE OF THE ROCK:
It's time to start thinking about climbing rock, tho that is not without it's own concerns for sure. Here in the Valley the two logical places to climb early season are Humphrey's Ledge and the South Buttress of Whitehorse. As of right now, they are probably the safest places to be on rock. But of course they do have places where you need to be careful getting there. IMHO there are NO safe places to climb rock on Cathedral Ledge or the Whitehorse slabs or Echo Roof. We need some rain and warm sunny days to clear off all the hidden snow and ice on the moderate route places like the Whitehorse slabs. Just give it some time...

Here's some pictures of local rock:

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190404/Cathedral_UpperRefuse.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190404/Cathedral_StandardRoute.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190404/Whitehorse_SouthButtress.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190404/Whitehorse_EchoRoof.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190404/Whitehorse_Slabs.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190404/Whitehorse_StandardRoute.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190404/HumphreysLedge.jpg
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine numerous options  
Repentance iffy  
Standard Route GREAT conditions Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN & very fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Here are a few interesting pictures taken this morning:

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190404/Repentance_Remission.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190328/Unicorn.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190404/CathedralLedge.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190404/Frankenstein.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190404/LHMonkeyWrench.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190404/MtWillard.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190404/MtWebster.jpg

As always the climb-by-climb pics are on Facebook and NEClimbs.com.

VALLEY CYCLING:
I finally knocked off one of my major bucket-list items yesterday, riding up the Tuckerman Ravine Trail to Ho Jo's. I gotta admit that I probably only rode 20% or so of the trail. Besides being steep in many places, it was somewhat chewed up from the snow cat. Still it was a fun ride/hike-a-bike. It did make me decide that getting one of those big "wolf" gears for my rear cassette was going on the list. I also rode down the Sherburne ski trail. I'e heard that people are doing it on occasion, so I decided to give it a shot. There was one scary icy bit about 1/3 of the way down and 2 bits that I got off and walked because they were wicked steep. It was very well packed out and firm and I left less of an impact than the folks who herringboned on the way up. Of course I would never have done it if the trail hadn't been very firm! Ride time round trip was 1:58.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190404/bike_1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190404/bike_2.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190404/bike_3.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190404/bike_4.jpg

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190404/bike_5.jpg

Highly recommended...

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


I think a lot about climbing still, but not during the daytime. I think about it mostly at night, and on special occasions. I think about climbing when I am fed up with life in general. When I whish I could go over to the rocks or the trees. I enjoy my dreams about climbing.
Fritz Wiessner
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