NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
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April 11, 2019

Hi Folks,

So where are we here folks? Well we had a couple of days of crappy weather early in the week. One day I saw 4" of heavy wet sloppy stuff that alternated between snow, sleet, freezing rain, rain and anything you can imagine in between. Then the next day we got another 2" of some kind of mess. Then yesterday we had clear blue skies, but temps stayed in the low to mid 30's. Today it's clear blue skies with temps predicted to be close to 50. YEE HA... You can read the weather report below yourself, so I won't try to rehash what the weather pundits have to say, but rest assured it's going to be up & down. Honestly I'd be a lot happier if it would just pick something and stabilize on it.

I want to go rock climbing, but we need another day of warm temps to get things stable even on cliffs like Humphreys, but I'm not sure that's going to happen for tomorrow, but if it does look for my car at Humphreys. I'm still getting asked about Whitehorse and various places on Cathedral. IMNSHO the only rational place on Whitehorse may be the South Buttress. Certainly nothing on the slab area! For me there is NO safe place on Cathedral at this time. Maybe in a week if we get warm sunny days and rain, but probably only on the Thin Air face. But getting up there safely is a crap shoot.

I would say that the classic Rod Stewart tune "Every Picture Tells A Story" would be appropriate here...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tqRWA35INOc

Here's some pictures of local rock:

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190411/Cathedral_UpperRefuse.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190411/Cathedral_StandardRoute.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190411/Whitehorse_SouthButtress.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190411/Whitehorse_EchoRoof.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190411/Whitehorse_Slabs.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190411/Whitehorse_StandardRoute.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190411/HumphreysLedge.jpg
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine numerous options  
Repentance iffy  
Standard Route GREAT conditions Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN & very fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

VALLEY CYCLING:
I've been reduced to dredging out the road bike today. The trails that were good at the beginning of the week are all crappy from the snow and slush. And if that weren't enough folks are post-holing everywhere. I rode up along Diana's Bath on Sunday and then up the Attitash Trail until it got too narrow and treacherous to ride. Here are some pix I took. You can see the holes clearly. BTW if you are respectful of the hikers, maybe doing it in the early morning and not on a holiday, this is a fun summer ride.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190411/bike_1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190411/bike_2.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190411/bike_3.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190411/bike_4.jpg

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190411/bike_5.jpg

Highly recommended year 'round...

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Together we knew toil, joy and pain. My fervent wish is that the nine of us who were united in face of death should remain fraternally united through life.
Maurice Herzog
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