NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 11:59a on 01/20/20 - Temperature: 20.0 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 20.0 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.059 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 22 %
IceCON 1. Climbs just coming in or only in upper elevations like Ravines.
1 out of a possible 5
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May 9, 2019

Hi Folks,

I got a note from the manager at Echo Lake State Park that the road to the top of Cathedral was opened yesterday. Good news for climbers. Passaconaway Road was opened a few days ago as well. However both Hurricane Mountain and Bear Notch Roads are not open yet. There is still much debris and some snow up on both, but hopefully soon... I have no information on Evans Notch at this time.

TRAINING THOUGHTS:
So it's the dawn, if you will, of a new season. And is so often the case, I've been hearing rumblings from folks talking about training and g getting themselves in shape for biking, hiking and rock season. Yes, rock season, which I assure you IS coming our way in spite of this seemingly late spring. And yes, in spite of the fact that it went down to 29 overnight here in the Valley folks!

There is always something new on the training horizon, and of course training regimens are very personal things. Back when I was living in Miami in the late 70's, I was running a lot of 10 K's and more. The IN thing at that time was Fartlek, which means "speed play" or "fun run". I did it a lot, but also mixed in some swimming. It worked for me at that time. Then I got into riding the road bike a lot. For that, interval training was the big thing, as was spending lots of money on lightweight components to supposedly help you climb better and go faster. I fell for it for a bit, until someone who I respected pointed out that if I gave up my beer intake for a few weeks I would shave off a pound or 2 and not need that new lightweight crankset that was going to set me back $400+. Plus overall I would just feel better. Turns out that works! About 10 years ago I went on a trip to ride the road bike in the Pyrenees, following the Tour. Of course I did my training rides, but I quit drinking for a month before I left, dropped almost 10 pounds and managed to do all the hill climbs in generally good form.

As I've gotten older, the training has become more difficult. I've personally found that a mix of things works best for me, plus training all year 'round. Needless to say YMMV, but I think it's really about finding the correct mix of the old adage - DIET AND EXERCISE... Workout but don't workout too much and watch what you eat and drink. It's a mix of climbing, do some yoga, ride the bike, stretch, do some amount of lifting, walk/hike, do planks and above all stay hydrated. I call it Cross Train, not Cross Fit!

I'm not going to climb 5.11, run marathons, or ride 2,500+ miles a year. Those days are gone. But hopefully I'm going to keep climbing 5.fun, riding the road and mountain bikes very regularly and just doing the things I want to be doing as often as possible. I believe that moderation and variety are the key. Just a thought... PS... If you're looking for a nice toprope or beginner lead area, check out The Other Classroom at the top of Cathedral Ledge. I checked it out this morning and it's in great shape.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190509/OtherClassroom.jpg
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 16, 2020
These pictures and today's Report is actually from 1/15, Wednesday. I knew it was going to be snowing almost all day today and I would not be able to take any pictures, so I went up to the Notch yesterday, figuring that 24 hours would make very little difference. I was pleasantly surprised at how much ice survived the 3 days of record temps and rain. In spite of everything the weather threw at us, there is still ice to climb and while the Frankenstein Amphitheater looks even worse, there are still options. This is a time to be cautious due to possible delamination, but if you want to get out and climb, you can. Just be aware that the next several days will be VERY cold, so dress appropriately and beware of what will likely be some very brittle ice.
Huntington Ravine options - beware avalanche danger  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route OK but top is a mess again Click to see route picture.
Dracula kind of OK but top out bad! Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

pan class="reportSectionHeader">ED WEBSTER SLIDESHOW:
On Sunday, May 12, 2019 starting at 2:30 PM Ed will be presenting his Mt. Everest The Hard Way slide show at Stevens Memorial Library on 345 Main Street North Andover, Mass. FREE !! Tell your Climbing friends! May 12 will also be the 31st Anniversary of his Very-Close To The Summit Day...

http://www.stevensmemlib.org
phone (978) 688-9505

VALLEY CYCLING:
This week I've ridden on both the East and West sides. The Swenson, Outer Limits and Twilight Zone trails are in very good shape right now. A little water here and there, but mostly clear and clean. The West side is another matter. The Echo Lake trails have several trees down and lots of debris. The same is true of the Ultimate Singletrack and Electric Loop. I rode the latter 2 on Wednesday and they both looked as if they had not been ridden this spring. We cleared the stuff we could, but they need a chainsaw and walk-through to be back to where they should be.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190509/Bike_1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190509/Bike_2.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190509/Bike_3.jpg

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Wilderness /n./ archaic word used to refer to the space that once existed between urban areas and which is now used as a proving ground for 4-wheel drive vehicles.
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