NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 11:59p on 07/04/22 - Temperature: 56.9 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 56.9 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.982 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 51 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
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May 30, 2019

Hi Folks,

This past weekend was Memorial Day, and honestly we couldn't have had a better weekend. Yes, we've been going back & forth with the weather this spring, but this time Mother Nature totally cooperated by giving us one of the best holiday weekends I've seen in quite a while. Of course I had all kinds of stuff going on and didn't get out climbing on the weekend, so when this afternoon turned nice and I had a couple of hours available, I figured I had to grab something.

I called up Brad just as he was heading home from the shop for lunch and we agreed to meet at the top of Cathedral to grab some laps on the Wall Of The Hurley Morning Light. a.k.a. the Other Classroom. It was dry, the bugs weren't TOO bad, and I managed to lead all of them and Brad grabbed a couple as well. All in all a nice "quickie." HA!

I'm calling it a 3, but honestly in places it's more like a 5! Don't even think about going out without bringing the bug dope, and definitely check for ticks when you get done - EVERYWHERE!
I've been wondering about the Peregrine restrictions this year, but hadn't heard anything from Audubon biologist Chris Martin this season. As I rode by the kiosk at Cathedral this afternoon I spotted one of his signs and took a snapshot.

And when I got home there was an email in my inbox from Chris detailing the closings. Here ya go:


Temporary climbing restrictions intended to benefit NH state-listed threatened peregrine falcons are posted at the following five New Hampshire cliff sites in 2019:

Cathedral Ledge (north end, right of Cathedral Roof, left of Diedre) in Bartlett, NH
Frankenstein Cliff (front/lower cliff) in Harts Location, NH
Holts Ledge (near clifftop overlook) in Lyme, NH
Rumney Rocks (Main Cliff, 2nd pitches) in Rumney, NH
Woodchuck Ledge (right half of cliff) in Albany, NH

Peregrines are also present at roughly a dozen additional NH cliffs where no closures have been posted because recreational use and repeated disturbance risk is believed to be minimal.

Climbers who encounter aggressive falcons during any climb at a NH cliff are advised to alter their climbing plan, and to please report the incident to NH Audubon or NH Fish & Game.

All posted areas will be reopened by August 1.


Saturday was a big day for mountain biking in the Valley, the NEMBA get-together at Cranmore. There were group rides, beer, live music and a general good time. A friend and I led a 2 hour beginner ride on the east side that started out with 14 people. It was a gas. I came home, showered, taught 3 bass lessons and went back in time to get a beer or two and jam with the band. All in all a great afternoon.

The trails have been cleaned up and are pretty much all in good shape right now. That even goes for the ones on Black Cap like Parking Lot Smoothie and Red Tail which were in pretty sad shape a week ago. In spite of the funky weather it's a good time to ride.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

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Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

Sitting on that first hook of the day, it's like your first time having sex. Your entire focus is on one very small object.
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