NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 7:29a on 12/03/20 - Temperature: 24.2 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 24.2 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.925 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 96 %
IceCON 0. Minimal ice available for the hard core and mixed aficionados!
0 out of a possible 5
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June 6, 2019

Hi Folks,

The upcoming Friday-Sunday may be the best weekend of the summer, at least so far. It looks as if we're going to have amazing sun and temps that will be at or above the average. Now that will be a real TREAT! If you can get the weekend off, unlike me, get outside and enjoy yourself...

I've put in and replaced many bolts over the 21 years I've been living here in the Valley and also removed my fair number of crappy pins. People have been climbing here since at least the 30's, and some of the fixed gear that folks are still clipping was put in an amazing number of years ago. If you take the time to carefully examine some of it, you might not want to bet your life on it. And of course that's quite literally what you're doing.

The Friends Of The Ledges has taken the initiative on the replacing fixed gear on many routes out there. A good example of what they've been up to is illustrated by their replacement of the anchor and bolts on the 5.11b slab climb on Whitehorse Ledge. While climbing it fairly recently one of the anchor bolts failed when the second fell at the 4th bolt! I can only imagine how the belayer felt when this happened. Besides having to lower the second off, they had to rappel off a single, now highly suspect bolt! Mike Morin (Northeast Regional Director for the Access Fund) and Sam Bendroth (Friends of the Ledges Board Member) replaced them recently. You can see a video of the process here:

And you can get a sense of what they've accomplished on their web site here:

Consider supporting them. They're doing good work.

I wish I could be there, but I've got a gig...

Saturday, June 8, 2019
6:00 PM 9:00 PM
Cathedral Ledge

I've raised the rating to a 4. Not because of black flies this time, they actually aren't as bad as I've seen them. It's mainly due too the brutal mosquitoes and even more so because of the ticks! I'm seeing the latter almost every single time I'm outside, and sometimes I find them in the house. BEWARE folks...
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective November 26, 2020
YUP, the ice has been forming in the notches and the higher elevations, tho nothing here in the Valley. People have been climbing in Tucks, Pinnacle and I even heard that there was reasonable ice on Mt Avalon - tho that's a slog. That said, it's not clear where things will be after this weekend's rain and warmup. I guess we'll just have to wait and see. At least all this sure puts some water in the system. [wry grin]
Huntington Ravine Pinnacle has been done  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route OUT Click to see route picture.
Dracula OUT Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Temporary climbing restrictions intended to benefit NH state-listed threatened peregrine falcons are posted at the following five New Hampshire cliff sites in 2019:  

Cathedral Ledge (north end, right of Cathedral Roof, left of Diedre) in Bartlett, NH
Frankenstein Cliff (front/lower cliff) in Harts Location, NH
Holts Ledge (near clifftop overlook) in Lyme, NH
Rumney Rocks (Main Cliff, 2nd pitches) in Rumney, NH
Woodchuck Ledge (right half of cliff) in Albany, NH

Peregrines are also present at roughly a dozen additional NH cliffs where no closures have been posted because recreational use and repeated disturbance risk is believed to be minimal.

Climbers who encounter aggressive falcons during any climb at a NH cliff are advised to alter their climbing plan, and to please report the incident to NH Audubon or NH Fish & Game.

All posted areas will be reopened by August 1.

In general everything in the Valley is in good shape right now. Local NEMBA volunteers have been out cleaning everything up and have done a generally great job. On Monday I went up to Gorham to check out the new trails that have been going in near the airport. I just have to say that they were amazing and certainly rival both what we have here in the Valley and Kingdom Trails, and you know that says a lot. Here's a link to some more info and some maps. Enjoy...

I've had mild arthritis for the past 7-8 years, mostly on my right hand in my pinky finger. My mother had it pretty bad, so it's not all that surprising. Only being in that place, I could deal with it. Unfortunately this spring I've started to get it in my left hand, mostly in my middle finger and the finger to it's left - next to the pinky. [SIGH] The joints are sore and the tendons are definitely strained. Self massage, CBD balm and arnica help me manage, but it's a drag. Actually a double drag since that's my bass fretting hand. Not to mention the front brake lever hand on my bike and the hand I feel most solid crimping with when I'm climbing. It makes me less inclined to climb hard any more, as well as not want to go climbing at all when I have a lot of musical things to do. Yeah, at 71 I guess it goes with the territory, but I don't have to like it. I suppose it's a harbinger of things to come.

"Getting old isn't for the faint of heart..."

I don't know who said it, but I gotta agree!

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

Writing about climbing is boring. I would rather go climbing.
Chuck Pratt
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