NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
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June 13, 2019

Hi Folks,

In between musical events last weekend and this week I did manage to get in some climbing. Nothing harder than 5.fun I admit, just enjoyable none-the-less. But for me that's what it's about these days I suppose. [wry grin]

Early in the week I went over to Humphrey's with Jeff Lea. He hadn't been out a lot so we opted for Humphrey's and the slab with the Perez's climb, Easy As Pudding Pie. We did 3 of the 4 climbs there, all fun. Where we put our packs on the ground Jeff noticed a NIKON lens cap cover. It looked as if it may have been there for some time, but it's hard to tell. Ping me if it's yours and I'll make arrangements to get it back to you. Assuming I can find it in my mess of a car! [HA] While Jeff was getting ready to lead Pudding Pie I spotted an amazingly large spider on a tree and another one right next to it. It was the size of one I've seen in Florida, but not here. On top of that when I led another of the climbs I spotted a large toad up near the anchor. We could use some more of them to cut down on the mosquito population.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190613/Humphreys_1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190613/Humphreys_2.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190613/Humphreys_3.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190613/Humphreys_4.jpg

A few days later we made the first trip of the season up to Mt Forist in Berlin. Again nothing hard, but lots of fun. We did Madigan, Nibroc and the climb to the right that shared the Nibroc anchor. All were fun, tho the right hand one has some spooky bits. We spotted several beautiful Lady Slippers and star flowers, one Lady Slipper right at the start of Madigan! It's that time of year.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190613/MtForist_1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190613/MtForist_2.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190613/MtForist_3.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20190613/MtForist_4.jpg

INSTANT BUG REPORT - BugCON 5:
OK OK OK I'll buy in, it's a 5 now!
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine numerous options  
Repentance iffy  
Standard Route GREAT conditions Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN & very fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

PEREGRINE RESTRICTIONS - UPDATED:
Here’s a brief update on temporary climbing restrictions for state-listed threatened Peregrine Falcons in NH:  

Closure no longer in effect and signs removed for Main Cliff (2nd pitches) at Rumney Rocks – Falcons have abandoned their nesting attempt near top of Iron Man Wall.  

Closure now in effect for Snakeskin Wall and Tsunami Wall in Kinsman Notch – Falcons are raising young on Tsunami Wall and defending both of these adjacent rock faces.  Signs placed at Rte 112 trailhead 0.7 mi north of Beaver Pond.  

Closures also continue in effect at:
Cathedral Ledge (north end, right of “Cathedral Roof”, left of “Diedre”) in Bartlett, NH Frankenstein Cliff (front/lower cliff) in Harts Location, NH
Holts Ledge (near clifftop overlook) in Lyme, NH
Woodchuck Ledge (right half of cliff) in Albany, NH

All posted areas will be reopened by August 1.

VALLEY CYCLING:
The biking has been good everywhere I've been. We've had enough very days for the puddles to mostly drain. So get out and ride, but be sure to bring the bug dope! They're brutal...

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


There are two kinds of people who climb mountains. Those whose hearts sing when they are in the mountains and all the rest.
Rheinhold Messner
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