NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 11:29p on 07/04/22 - Temperature: 57.8 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 57.8 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.976 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 49 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
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June 13, 2019

Hi Folks,

In between musical events last weekend and this week I did manage to get in some climbing. Nothing harder than I admit, just enjoyable none-the-less. But for me that's what it's about these days I suppose. [wry grin]

Early in the week I went over to Humphrey's with Jeff Lea. He hadn't been out a lot so we opted for Humphrey's and the slab with the Perez's climb, Easy As Pudding Pie. We did 3 of the 4 climbs there, all fun. Where we put our packs on the ground Jeff noticed a NIKON lens cap cover. It looked as if it may have been there for some time, but it's hard to tell. Ping me if it's yours and I'll make arrangements to get it back to you. Assuming I can find it in my mess of a car! [HA] While Jeff was getting ready to lead Pudding Pie I spotted an amazingly large spider on a tree and another one right next to it. It was the size of one I've seen in Florida, but not here. On top of that when I led another of the climbs I spotted a large toad up near the anchor. We could use some more of them to cut down on the mosquito population.

A few days later we made the first trip of the season up to Mt Forist in Berlin. Again nothing hard, but lots of fun. We did Madigan, Nibroc and the climb to the right that shared the Nibroc anchor. All were fun, tho the right hand one has some spooky bits. We spotted several beautiful Lady Slippers and star flowers, one Lady Slipper right at the start of Madigan! It's that time of year.

OK OK OK I'll buy in, it's a 5 now!
Here’s a brief update on temporary climbing restrictions for state-listed threatened Peregrine Falcons in NH:  

Closure no longer in effect and signs removed for Main Cliff (2nd pitches) at Rumney Rocks – Falcons have abandoned their nesting attempt near top of Iron Man Wall.  

Closure now in effect for Snakeskin Wall and Tsunami Wall in Kinsman Notch – Falcons are raising young on Tsunami Wall and defending both of these adjacent rock faces.  Signs placed at Rte 112 trailhead 0.7 mi north of Beaver Pond.  

Closures also continue in effect at:
Cathedral Ledge (north end, right of “Cathedral Roof”, left of “Diedre”) in Bartlett, NH Frankenstein Cliff (front/lower cliff) in Harts Location, NH
Holts Ledge (near clifftop overlook) in Lyme, NH
Woodchuck Ledge (right half of cliff) in Albany, NH

All posted areas will be reopened by August 1.

The biking has been good everywhere I've been. We've had enough very days for the puddles to mostly drain. So get out and ride, but be sure to bring the bug dope! They're brutal...

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Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

Many have questioned the quality of this sort of achievement, deploring the use of pitons, tension traverses and expansion bolts, but the record speaks for itself. This is a technical age and climbers will continue in the future to look for new routes. There is nothing more satisfying than being a pioneer.
Allen Steck, justifying the 1st ascent of Sentinel's north face
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