NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 7:59a on 02/26/21 - Temperature: 16.1 °F - Wind speed: 6.0 mph - Wind chill: 13.5 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.261 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Rapidly - Humidity: 30 %
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
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June 13, 2019

Hi Folks,

In between musical events last weekend and this week I did manage to get in some climbing. Nothing harder than I admit, just enjoyable none-the-less. But for me that's what it's about these days I suppose. [wry grin]

Early in the week I went over to Humphrey's with Jeff Lea. He hadn't been out a lot so we opted for Humphrey's and the slab with the Perez's climb, Easy As Pudding Pie. We did 3 of the 4 climbs there, all fun. Where we put our packs on the ground Jeff noticed a NIKON lens cap cover. It looked as if it may have been there for some time, but it's hard to tell. Ping me if it's yours and I'll make arrangements to get it back to you. Assuming I can find it in my mess of a car! [HA] While Jeff was getting ready to lead Pudding Pie I spotted an amazingly large spider on a tree and another one right next to it. It was the size of one I've seen in Florida, but not here. On top of that when I led another of the climbs I spotted a large toad up near the anchor. We could use some more of them to cut down on the mosquito population.

A few days later we made the first trip of the season up to Mt Forist in Berlin. Again nothing hard, but lots of fun. We did Madigan, Nibroc and the climb to the right that shared the Nibroc anchor. All were fun, tho the right hand one has some spooky bits. We spotted several beautiful Lady Slippers and star flowers, one Lady Slipper right at the start of Madigan! It's that time of year.

OK OK OK I'll buy in, it's a 5 now!
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 25, 2021
It really does feel a little more like mid-March than late February right now, tho this really has to do with a couple of sunny days with temps in the 40's. Of course that's not really a bad thing, as long as it stays cool at night and we don't get any rain. But stay tuned... In general tho the ice is in good shape right now, with a few exceptions where the climbs have been in full sun over the past couple of warm days. The thing to be aware of is that there are places where the ice is punky and snowcone-like or has become undermined. But as long as you are paying attention, you'll be OK. Frankly early to mid-March is really my favorite time to climb. There's nothing like those longer days, more moderate temps and plastic ice. And the occasional warm day when you can get out on some warm early-season rock! What's not to like?
Huntington Ravine IN  
Repentance questionable Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Here’s a brief update on temporary climbing restrictions for state-listed threatened Peregrine Falcons in NH:  

Closure no longer in effect and signs removed for Main Cliff (2nd pitches) at Rumney Rocks – Falcons have abandoned their nesting attempt near top of Iron Man Wall.  

Closure now in effect for Snakeskin Wall and Tsunami Wall in Kinsman Notch – Falcons are raising young on Tsunami Wall and defending both of these adjacent rock faces.  Signs placed at Rte 112 trailhead 0.7 mi north of Beaver Pond.  

Closures also continue in effect at:
Cathedral Ledge (north end, right of “Cathedral Roof”, left of “Diedre”) in Bartlett, NH Frankenstein Cliff (front/lower cliff) in Harts Location, NH
Holts Ledge (near clifftop overlook) in Lyme, NH
Woodchuck Ledge (right half of cliff) in Albany, NH

All posted areas will be reopened by August 1.

The biking has been good everywhere I've been. We've had enough very days for the puddles to mostly drain. So get out and ride, but be sure to bring the bug dope! They're brutal...

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Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

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Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

In the mountains one forgets to count the days.
Joe Tasker
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