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I've been crazy busy with music and computer work stuff, plus I've been having some hand issues so unfortunately I didn't climb or mountain bike this week. [AARRGGHH] I do think that the hand issue, which is pretty bad "trigger finger" on the middle 3 fingers of my left hand, is due to a combination of the downhill pounding and incessant squeezing of the brake-lever from riding 4-5 times a week.
Fortunately it's feeling better with less MTB riding and climbing, so I'll try to work in some more climbing next week. Gonna leave off the MTB for another couple of weeks tho! In the meantime I'll just post a mega-cool link to one of the most amazing ice climbing adventure stories that I've come across lately. This is one that ought to get you thinking about ice season 2020...
PEREGRINE CLOSING UPDATE:
Chris Martin, our friendly local Audubon biologist, says that all of the bans and restrictions are lifted for this season.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
iffy
Standard Route
GREAT conditions
Dracula
IN & very fat
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
VALLEY CYCLING:
I rode Mt Clinton Road and Jefferson Notch again on Tuesday. This time on my road bike. Amazingly, for mid-late July, temps were pretty cool and comfortable. Both the Edmonds and Jefferson trailheads were totally full! Must have been the weather. Interestingly enough there was a DOT crew working on Mt Clinton just past where the road is closed beyond the Edmonds trailhead. Pretty cool... They say that at some point the road will be repaired. I hope soon.
INSTANT BUG REPORT - Bug CON 4:
While it depends on where you are and time of day, I think that the bugs are marginally better with the cooler weather. I'll see about reducing the rating to a 3 depending on how things are after it warms back up later this weekend. Any way you cut it, the ticks are still pretty bad!
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.