NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 6:00p on 01/26/20 - Temperature: 37.1 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 37.1 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.478 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 100 %
IceCON 2. Some trade routes are climbable, even in lower elevations.
2 out of a possible 5
Mooney Mountain GuidesInternational Mountain Climbing SchoolNorthEast Mountaineeringthe American Alpine ClubInternational Mountain Equipment
Like reading the White Mountain Report every week? Why not get it delivered to your e-mailbox every Thursday? All you have to do is subscribe. It's fast, painless, and best of all it doesn't cost you a dime!

October 3, 2019

Hi Folks,

So it's clearly turned to Fall here in the Happy Valley, at least temperature wise. The foliage hasn't really popped down here, but it has in the notches. I saw some pictures of Crawford and Pinkham from a day or 2 ago and they looked awfully nice - probably at 80%. Sweet...

The rest of the country is completely wacked out with 4' (that's right I said FEET) of white in Montana and record high temps down south. The entire area from Texas, across and up through Ohio, down to Virginia and all the way to Fkorida they are experiencing record heat. In Macon GA, where I was born, it was 99 degrees today, Austin TX is 96 and it's 98 in Roanoke VA! That's just totally nuts for October 3rd. Heck, here by the cliffs it was 34 this morning at 5:30. Go figure...

Monday was a gorgeous day and tho I had a lot of stuff to do, I managed to wedge in a climb with my friend David. I know I've done Cormier Magness many times, but that's what makes it a go-to for me. I can do the Beginner's pitch and the next 2 and rap in less than 2 hours. It's perfect. I had talked the day before with some other friends about climbing, but they were thinking it was going to be too chilly for them. However, by 11 the sun was out and it was very pleasant - probably upper 60's or close to 70. Who knew? ;-)

The Beginner's pitch is so easy I could probably do it blindfolded. It looks as if someone has replaced the rap sling & rings this season and thanks to whomever. I think it would be great to have a pair of bolts right of leg tree, but I doubt that would go over well, tho it's easy to get sap on you from the tree! P2 is just sweet and tho it's thin, I wish the flake went another 100 feet. And of course as David says, the next pitch is "the money pitch." It has the interesting move near the top that I always actually have to think about. A few years ago I did it with Jeff Lea in early December in below freezing temps. There was verglas on the mossy traverse that gave it a somewhat different edge. HA

As we rapped we spotted someone soloing Beginner's Easy off to our right. The rick was nice and dry and felt good underfoot, but there was a lot of pine straw that would have made me nervous. To each their own.

Last year we had some snow by mid-October and the temps really dropped. I'm hoping it stays nice a little longer this year. I'm looking forward to climbing ice, but I'm not ready to start shoveling snow. [wry grin]

here's a few pix from Monday:

There is a trail closure on the Bryce Path between Cathedral and Whitehorse. Needless to say that will make the walk-off after climbing Whitehorse shall we say problematic! I know at least one party has gotten caught up in that. Probably easier to rap than walk off all the way around left or around Cathedral!
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 23, 2020
My goodness, what a difference a few days and a little cold weather will make. The ice has filled in again and we're almost back to reasonable early/mid-season conditions. Last week the middle of Walk In The Forest and Willies Slide were both dramatically gone. As of today both were pretty much filled in. I spoke with a guide who was on Standard 2 days ago who said the middle like wasn't great, but this morning it looked good. I also spoke with someone who described penguin as "epically fat!" There are some predictions for either a rain, mixed or a snow event on Saturday night into Sunday. As long as we don't get a full-fledged rain event things will be great. Keep your fingers crossed folks. (Maybe the toes as well..)
Huntington Ravine options - beware avalanche danger  
Repentance building well  
Standard Route good, MUCH better Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

I've ridden this as a way to get to Jefferson Notch 4 time this season. The first 3 times Mt Clinton was closed off from the Edmunds Path trailhead to the Base Road, at the start of Jefferson Notch. I even talked to some DOT guys working on it about a month ago and they said they doubted it would be reopened this year. However it's open now so enjoy.

Everything is in great shape right now. Stay tuned tho...

Still a 1, but likely not for long,

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

You put up with the grind of work or school as long as you can or is required. But then, one day, the phone rings one too many times, or the line at the gas pumps seems unending. The air smells bad. The food foul. 'Enough of this' you cry. You grab your ice tools and are gone.
Duane Raleigh
NEClimbs on Facebook
NEClimbs on Facebook
RSS Reader Feed
RSS Feed for NEClimbs, the New England rock and ice climbing resource
Bagels Plus
New England Mountain Guides
The ACCESS Fund, Protect America's Climbing
Sponsors & Donors
View Current List