NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 1. Climbs just coming in or only in upper elevations like Ravines.
1 out of a possible 5
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December 26, 2019

Hi Folks,

Goodness gracious, it's almost the New Year. I actually can't believe how quickly 2019 has flown by. I've always heard that's how it is as you get older, but didn't actually believe it. I guess that's a reason to try to do something special and memorable every day you're alive. Needless to say climbing, and playing music, is one way to make that happen.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20191226/Al.jpg

2020 FUNDRAISER WINDUP:
I've decided that I'm not going to bug you for $$ any more this year. In spite of the fact that donations are DOWN close to 50% from this time last year! I truly would have hoped that folks find this weekly White Mountain Report and NEClimbs.com web site enough to warrant making a small donation to support what I do. But of course there are lots of things pressing on people's interests and finances these days, so I understand. In addition, there are lots of alternative places people can get their information these days. Everyone is doing Instagram and Facebook reporting nowadays. I'd like to think that after 20+ years of doing this, I have something special to offer, but perhaps that is not the case. Regardless, thanks to those who have contributed.

As always, absolutely any amount is welcome, so please take a minute to and go ON LINE and make your donation via PayPal. And you don't actually NEED a PayPal account, you can use almost any credit card. Just click the link below:

http://www.neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=donation_fundraiser

Of course you can also contribute via check or money order if you like. Make it out to NEClimbs and send it right here:

NEClimbs
92 Bow Lane
North Conway, NH 03860

The time and expenses of the running and maintaining NEClimbs.com and putting out The White Mountain Report continue all year. PLEASE REMEMBER, it's your contribution that makes this newsletter and the NEClimbs web site viable. You can see many of the Reports on NEClimbs.com web site, I've archived them from as far back as September of 1999! To get a sense of the popularity of the site, current traffic as of October 2019 on NEClimbs.com is about 127,447 UNIQUE site visits a day, generating roughly 1,900,000 monthly "HITS". The White Mountain Report newsletter also goes out to over 1,200 subscribers weekly! If you're one of those, please consider making a donation to the site.

Thank you once again for all of your support...
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 21, 2024
I can't actually say that there is nothing out there that can't be climbed. That would be foolish. But for the average, or a little above average climber, that's probably correct. That said, I did hear that there is climbable ice on Parasol in Dixville Notch. Not sure how that will be after we get a foot of heavy wet snow on Saturday. Regardless, here's a few pix I took today just to document things.
Huntington Ravine AVALANCHE  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route OUT Click to see route picture.
Dracula OUT Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20191226/CathedralLedge.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20191226/Diagonal_Mordor_Cathedral.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20191226/NorthEnd_slab.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20191226/Diagonal_Mordor_Cathedral.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20191226/Repentance_Remission.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20191226/Unicorn.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20191226/Frankenstein.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20191226/BraggPheasant.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20191226/Shoestring.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20191226/MtWillard.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20191226/CauliflowerGully.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20191226/SnotRocket.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20191226/LeftHandMonkeyWrench.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20191226/MtWillard_UpperTier.jpg

CLIMBING THIS WEEK:
I did get out to climb on Monday with my friend David G. We kind of had a plan to climb Standard right to the Penguin. But there were people on Standard dropping ice everywhere, so that was not a good option. I've climbed the original direct start to Penguin many times, and tho it looked thin I decided to give it a shot. As it turned out, that wasn't the best idea. Tho it's always thin, this time it was REALLY thin! I mean mostly 1/4" ice smears and some turf shots. I finally got in my 1st piece of gear about 60' up, a 1/2 way in red Petzl stubbier and slung icicle! [SHEESH] Eventually I got in a couple of other mediocre pieces, with the best one right where you go over the ledge to the base of Penguin proper, a full blue Petzl.

As I was bringing David up, local guide Craig Taylor brought his client over from Standard. As soon as Dave got to a place where he could get out of the way of icefall, we let Craig play through. Then when Dave got up, Craig's client headed up. We waited for them to finish and I headed up. As always the lower curtain is the steepest and most difficult bit. The chimney was great however. You could get hooks on the right side, and the ice generally was great. Tho I had rock gear I didn't use any of it. I got in several screws and felt totally comfortable. This version of Penguin is about as good as I've ever seen it.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20191223/penguin.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20191223/Penguin_Craig_1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20191223/Penguin_David.jpg

VALLEY CYCLING:
Well I just gotta say it's been great. I rode in my back yard by Echo Lake and then was out in Whittaker Woods the other day and had a great time. There is snow here & there and you really do need at least a fat tire bike if you're going to be out there, but overall it's excellent.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


I started climbing when men were men... and we nailed 5.8.
TM Herbert
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