NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 6:00p on 01/26/20 - Temperature: 37.1 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 37.1 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.478 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 100 %
IceCON 2. Some trade routes are climbable, even in lower elevations.
2 out of a possible 5
International Mountain EquipmentMooney Mountain GuidesNorthEast MountaineeringThe ACCESS Fund, Protect America's ClimbingNew England Mountain Guides
Like reading the White Mountain Report every week? Why not get it delivered to your e-mailbox every Thursday? All you have to do is subscribe. It's fast, painless, and best of all it doesn't cost you a dime!

December 26, 2019

Hi Folks,

Goodness gracious, it's almost the New Year. I actually can't believe how quickly 2019 has flown by. I've always heard that's how it is as you get older, but didn't actually believe it. I guess that's a reason to try to do something special and memorable every day you're alive. Needless to say climbing, and playing music, is one way to make that happen.

I've decided that I'm not going to bug you for $$ any more this year. In spite of the fact that donations are DOWN close to 50% from this time last year! I truly would have hoped that folks find this weekly White Mountain Report and web site enough to warrant making a small donation to support what I do. But of course there are lots of things pressing on people's interests and finances these days, so I understand. In addition, there are lots of alternative places people can get their information these days. Everyone is doing Instagram and Facebook reporting nowadays. I'd like to think that after 20+ years of doing this, I have something special to offer, but perhaps that is not the case. Regardless, thanks to those who have contributed.

As always, absolutely any amount is welcome, so please take a minute to and go ON LINE and make your donation via PayPal. And you don't actually NEED a PayPal account, you can use almost any credit card. Just click the link below:

Of course you can also contribute via check or money order if you like. Make it out to NEClimbs and send it right here:

92 Bow Lane
North Conway, NH 03860

The time and expenses of the running and maintaining and putting out The White Mountain Report continue all year. PLEASE REMEMBER, it's your contribution that makes this newsletter and the NEClimbs web site viable. You can see many of the Reports on web site, I've archived them from as far back as September of 1999! To get a sense of the popularity of the site, current traffic as of October 2019 on is about 127,447 UNIQUE site visits a day, generating roughly 1,900,000 monthly "HITS". The White Mountain Report newsletter also goes out to over 1,200 subscribers weekly! If you're one of those, please consider making a donation to the site.

Thank you once again for all of your support...
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 23, 2020
My goodness, what a difference a few days and a little cold weather will make. The ice has filled in again and we're almost back to reasonable early/mid-season conditions. Last week the middle of Walk In The Forest and Willies Slide were both dramatically gone. As of today both were pretty much filled in. I spoke with a guide who was on Standard 2 days ago who said the middle like wasn't great, but this morning it looked good. I also spoke with someone who described penguin as "epically fat!" There are some predictions for either a rain, mixed or a snow event on Saturday night into Sunday. As long as we don't get a full-fledged rain event things will be great. Keep your fingers crossed folks. (Maybe the toes as well..)
Huntington Ravine options - beware avalanche danger  
Repentance building well  
Standard Route good, MUCH better Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

I did get out to climb on Monday with my friend David G. We kind of had a plan to climb Standard right to the Penguin. But there were people on Standard dropping ice everywhere, so that was not a good option. I've climbed the original direct start to Penguin many times, and tho it looked thin I decided to give it a shot. As it turned out, that wasn't the best idea. Tho it's always thin, this time it was REALLY thin! I mean mostly 1/4" ice smears and some turf shots. I finally got in my 1st piece of gear about 60' up, a 1/2 way in red Petzl stubbier and slung icicle! [SHEESH] Eventually I got in a couple of other mediocre pieces, with the best one right where you go over the ledge to the base of Penguin proper, a full blue Petzl.

As I was bringing David up, local guide Craig Taylor brought his client over from Standard. As soon as Dave got to a place where he could get out of the way of icefall, we let Craig play through. Then when Dave got up, Craig's client headed up. We waited for them to finish and I headed up. As always the lower curtain is the steepest and most difficult bit. The chimney was great however. You could get hooks on the right side, and the ice generally was great. Tho I had rock gear I didn't use any of it. I got in several screws and felt totally comfortable. This version of Penguin is about as good as I've ever seen it.

Well I just gotta say it's been great. I rode in my back yard by Echo Lake and then was out in Whittaker Woods the other day and had a great time. There is snow here & there and you really do need at least a fat tire bike if you're going to be out there, but overall it's excellent.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

Life is brought down to the basics: if you are warm, regular, healthy, not thirsty or hungry, then you are not on a mountain... Climbing at altitude is like hitting your head against a brick wall it's great when you stop.
Chris Darwin
NEClimbs on Facebook
NEClimbs on Facebook
RSS Reader Feed
RSS Feed for NEClimbs, the New England rock and ice climbing resource
Bagels Plus
International Mountain Climbing School
the American Alpine Club
Sponsors & Donors
View Current List