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Here's to a very Happy New Year for you all. Yes, it's the start of a new decade so I'm personally hopeful for some changes that will help everyone and protect the environment. Regardless, for me this year is about staying healthy above all, playing more music and climbing more rock & ice routes. I wish all of you a successful year in whatever way you desire.
CLIMBING THIS WEEK:
On Sunday I got out for my annual ice climb with my long-time NY friend Martin. We always look for something different & interesting and I'd been thinking about Gully #1 on the far left side of Willard. I thought it looked pretty good last Thursday when I took pictures, however it looked like crap Sunday morning. In fact most things look anemic at best. So we decided to wander down the tracks & head up towards the Monkey Wrench and see what we could find that was climbable. There were some tracks that headed uphill after Snot Rocket that I thought were to the Wrench, but as it turned out were a party that went up to what I call the Yellow Slab. I've soloed it several times over the years, just as something to do, but not in a while. It has a nice steep section at the start, a low angle slab, a second steeper & taller section and then some rolling slabs to a top-out in the trees.
The start was pretty fun. Usually the slab is covered with about 1" of ice & snow. This time it was 1/4" ice and now snow! The second time in a week I've found myself on long runout moderate ice with no gear, last week it was P1 of Penguin! [SIGH] Oh well... I tapped my way up the slab and belayed at the base of the curtain. Then I climbed the curtain and moved over to the right about 40' to some trees where there was obviously an anchor - such as it was! From there it was all rolling bulges to the top. The previous party had left some slings & rings on a tree at the top so we rapped back to the lower tree, down to another tree on climbers-right and then back to the bottom. We were climbing with a 70 meter rope, but if you have a 60 be sure to bring a tag line.
I can't recommend this climb, but when you're bored it's something to do. Bring at least a couple of stubbies!
After taking the pictures today I met up with guide Matt Bowman & we did Dracula Left. It's in good shape right now. He led, I hooked my way up 90% of it and it was lots of fun.
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
iffy
Standard Route
GREAT conditions
Dracula
IN & very fat
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
SHAMELESS SELF PROMOTION:
I'll be at the Red Parka Pub in Glen with Bruce Marshall & the Shuffle this Friday & Saturday (Jan 3 & 4) from 9-12:30. This is a great band that plays lots of blues & southern rock as well as some very cool originals. Great food and good brews. Come on out & be sure to say hi.
VALLEY CYCLING:
Lots of snow on the trails right now and not much is packed out. Best to wait a bit.
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,
Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire
To qualify for mountain rescue work, you have to pass our test. The doctor holds a flashlight to your ear. If he can see light coming out the other one, you qualify.
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
