NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 6:00p on 01/26/20 - Temperature: 37.1 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 37.1 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.478 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 100 %
IceCON 2. Some trade routes are climbable, even in lower elevations.
2 out of a possible 5
Mooney Mountain GuidesNorthEast Mountaineeringthe American Alpine ClubNew England Mountain GuidesInternational Mountain Climbing School
S U B S C R I B E
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January 2, 2020

Hi Folks,

Here's to a very Happy New Year for you all. Yes, it's the start of a new decade so I'm personally hopeful for some changes that will help everyone and protect the environment. Regardless, for me this year is about staying healthy above all, playing more music and climbing more rock & ice routes. I wish all of you a successful year in whatever way you desire.

CLIMBING THIS WEEK:
On Sunday I got out for my annual ice climb with my long-time NY friend Martin. We always look for something different & interesting and I'd been thinking about Gully #1 on the far left side of Willard. I thought it looked pretty good last Thursday when I took pictures, however it looked like crap Sunday morning. In fact most things look anemic at best. So we decided to wander down the tracks & head up towards the Monkey Wrench and see what we could find that was climbable. There were some tracks that headed uphill after Snot Rocket that I thought were to the Wrench, but as it turned out were a party that went up to what I call the Yellow Slab. I've soloed it several times over the years, just as something to do, but not in a while. It has a nice steep section at the start, a low angle slab, a second steeper & taller section and then some rolling slabs to a top-out in the trees.

The start was pretty fun. Usually the slab is covered with about 1" of ice & snow. This time it was 1/4" ice and now snow! The second time in a week I've found myself on long runout moderate ice with no gear, last week it was P1 of Penguin! [SIGH] Oh well... I tapped my way up the slab and belayed at the base of the curtain. Then I climbed the curtain and moved over to the right about 40' to some trees where there was obviously an anchor - such as it was! From there it was all rolling bulges to the top. The previous party had left some slings & rings on a tree at the top so we rapped back to the lower tree, down to another tree on climbers-right and then back to the bottom. We were climbing with a 70 meter rope, but if you have a 60 be sure to bring a tag line.

I can't recommend this climb, but when you're bored it's something to do. Bring at least a couple of stubbies!

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200102/Willard_slab_1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200102/Willard_slab_2.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200102/Willard_slab_3.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200102/Willard_slab_4.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200102/Willard_slab_5.jpg

Several folks have asked me where various climbs were on the right side of Mt Willard so I thought this might be useful:

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200102/MtWillard_right_detail.jpg

After taking the pictures today I met up with guide Matt Bowman & we did Dracula Left. It's in good shape right now. He led, I hooked my way up 90% of it and it was lots of fun.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200102/Dracula_Matt.jpg

Thanks to Matt for this cool video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U6j_SyW9d1g
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 23, 2020
My goodness, what a difference a few days and a little cold weather will make. The ice has filled in again and we're almost back to reasonable early/mid-season conditions. Last week the middle of Walk In The Forest and Willies Slide were both dramatically gone. As of today both were pretty much filled in. I spoke with a guide who was on Standard 2 days ago who said the middle like wasn't great, but this morning it looked good. I also spoke with someone who described penguin as "epically fat!" There are some predictions for either a rain, mixed or a snow event on Saturday night into Sunday. As long as we don't get a full-fledged rain event things will be great. Keep your fingers crossed folks. (Maybe the toes as well..)
Huntington Ravine options - beware avalanche danger  
Repentance building well  
Standard Route good, MUCH better Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200102/CathedralLedge.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200102/northEnd.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200102/Diagonal.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200102/Repentance_Remission.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200102/Unicorn.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200102/Frankenstein.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200102/Shoestring.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200102/MtWillard.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200102/SnotRocket.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200102/LeftHandMonkeyWrench.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200102/MtWillard_UpperTier.jpg

SHAMELESS SELF PROMOTION:
I'll be at the Red Parka Pub in Glen with Bruce Marshall & the Shuffle this Friday & Saturday (Jan 3 & 4) from 9-12:30. This is a great band that plays lots of blues & southern rock as well as some very cool originals. Great food and good brews. Come on out & be sure to say hi.

VALLEY CYCLING:
Lots of snow on the trails right now and not much is packed out. Best to wait a bit.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Why climb? For the natural experience; for the danger that draws us ever on; for the feeling of total freedom; for the monstrous drop beneath you. It is like a drug.
Hermann Buhl
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