NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
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January 16, 2020

Hi Folks,

Not really a lot to say right now. I think that the Instant Ice Report pretty much says it all. It was a really messy couple of days, but things are getting better. And with brutal cold coming in on Saturday and them more of the same on Monday, the ice should reform like gangbusters. Stay tuned... Like everyone in the Valley I'm hoping that we stay cold through the next 2 weeks for the upcoming Ice Fest.

MT WASHINGTON VALLEY ICE FEST - January 31 - February 2:
Yup, it's almost here friends, at the end of the month... For 27 years this event has been eagerly anticipated by ice climbers in the Eastern United States and is considered one of the premier climbing events in the country. It is a celebration of ice climbing and winter mountaineering, and the people that make it a part of their lives. It continues to provide a great opportunity for those attending to network, socialize, try new gear and participate in multiple day courses, one-day technical clinics and privately guided climbs. MWV Ice Fest welcomes climbers from all different backgrounds. Whether you are LGBTQIA+, adaptive, POC, we are striving to be an inclusive festival.

For information & booking your clinic call 603-356-7064

SHAMELESS MUSICAL SELF PROMOTION:
I've been crazy busy with music over the past 2 weeks and coupled with the horrible weather have hardly been able to get out for any climbing. It's been frustrating on some levels, but that's how it goes I guess. I have shows coming up the next several weekends and I've had recording sessions in the studio for folks wanting new tunes for the upcoming WMWV Valley Song Contest, songs due on Feb 14. I was a finalist myself last year, but don't know if I'll have time to get a tune of my own done for this year. [sigh] I have some fun gigs coming up over the next couple of weeks. If you're around, please come by and say hi.

Thursday Jan 16 - The Gravel Project - McGrath's - 9-12:30
Saturday Jan 18 - Bruce Marshall & Shuffle - Top Of The 9th in Fryeburg - 8-11:30
Thursday Jan 30 - Skunk Sessions - McGrath's - 9-12:30
Friday Feb 7 - Skunk Sessions - Brodie's Seaport - Salem MA - 9
Friday/Saturday Feb 14/15 - Bruce Marshall & Shuffle - Red Parka Pub - 9
Friday Jan 28 - Bruce Marshall & Shuffle - Top Of The 9th in Fryeburg - 8-11:30
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine numerous options  
Repentance iffy  
Standard Route GREAT conditions Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN & very fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200116/Puffin-1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200116/Puffin-2.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200116/Puffin-3.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200116/Puffin-Penguin.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200116/Penguin-P1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200116/Dracula-doubles.jpg

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200116/CathedralLedge.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200116/northEnd.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200116/Diagonal.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200116/Repentance_Remission.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200116/Unicorn.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200116/Frankenstein.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200116/Shoestring.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200116/MtWillard.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200116/SnotRocket.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200116/LeftHandMonkeyWrench.jpg


VALLEY CYCLING:
Rain/Snow/Warm Temps = a Mess! Nothing is packed out. Not to my taste, that's for sure. Stay tuned...

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


I find that rock climbing is the finest, most healthiest sport in the whole world. It is much healthier than most; look at baseball, where 10,000 sit on their ass to watch a handful of players
John Salathé
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