NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 5:59a on 03/02/21 - Temperature: 1.4 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: -2.6 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.654 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 35 %
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
Mooney Mountain Guidesthe American Alpine ClubSavage Mountain GearFriends Of The LedgesEquinox Guiding Service LLC
S U B S C R I B E
Like reading the White Mountain Report every week? Why not get it delivered to your e-mailbox every Thursday? All you have to do is subscribe. It's fast, painless, and best of all it doesn't cost you a dime!
CLICK HERE...

February 20, 2020

Hi Folks,

Yep, we got another good round of snow on Tuesday that lasted all day, dropping 10" here in the Valley and more in the higher elevations. I sure was happy that I didn't have to go anywhere 'cause it took some time to clear it out. For this round I actually had to rake the roof, which adds another hour+ onto the process. [sigh] Regardless the snow, longer days, warm temps followed by a significant cold snap last night and tonight has really brought the ice into focus and honestly we're teetering between 4 and 5 ice axe conditions out there at last. Once the snow firms up a bit I think we'll be at a 5.

I talked a lot about the snow conditions last week, and we're close to the same status, but I'm not going to belabor the point. Just be aware that there is a LOT of snow right now and you need to be aware of what's above you. Here's a picture of some folks on Cinema and another of the AT/Mt Webster Trail from this morning. It doesn't look as if anyone's been on Webster or Shoestring and if you're thinking about doing that one you might want to bring snowshoes! As far as Cinema goes, it mush have been quite the slog back across the upper ledge to get to Hitchcock.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200220/MtWebsterTrail.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200220/Cinema-climbers.jpg

SAVAGE GEAR:
I've known Rich Page for 20 years and have always loved the stuff he has created. I owned an original SG pack BITD and swore by his gaiters as well. He was a designer for Hyperlite and was involved in their pack development, as well as other gear. He has recently gone back out on his own and created a new pack design that calls on everything he has learned over the years. My good friend Matty Bowman has been testing a prototype and frankly I'm very impressed. When they are available you can bet I'm going to get one. It has everything I need in an ice and/or rock cragging pack. I'm also excited to welcome Rich and Savage Gear as a NEClimbs sponsor. Here's a shot of him with the new baby.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200220/SavageGear.jpg

Savage Gear is located at Will's Inn, on the right side of 302 in Bartlett. If you need something repaired, which he is a master at, want to chat gear or play some darts stop by. Be Aware that he is a mean dart-aficionado! Currently the best way to get in touch with him is through FaceBook.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 25, 2021
It really does feel a little more like mid-March than late February right now, tho this really has to do with a couple of sunny days with temps in the 40's. Of course that's not really a bad thing, as long as it stays cool at night and we don't get any rain. But stay tuned... In general tho the ice is in good shape right now, with a few exceptions where the climbs have been in full sun over the past couple of warm days. The thing to be aware of is that there are places where the ice is punky and snowcone-like or has become undermined. But as long as you are paying attention, you'll be OK. Frankly early to mid-March is really my favorite time to climb. There's nothing like those longer days, more moderate temps and plastic ice. And the occasional warm day when you can get out on some warm early-season rock! What's not to like?
Huntington Ravine IN  
Repentance questionable Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200220/CathedralLedge.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200220/Diagonal.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200220/Repentance_Remission.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200220/Repentance_upper.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200220/Remission_upper.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200220/Unicorn.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200220/Frankenstein.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200220/Shoestring.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200220/MtWebster.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200220/MtWillard.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200220/MtWillard_UpperTier.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200220/LHMonkeyWrench.jpg

VALLEY CYCLING:
On Monday, for the first time in several weeks I headed over to ride the East Side a few days ago. This was of course prior to the big snow we got on Tuesday. It has been a while since I'd checked out Sticks & Stones, and I thought maybe it had gotten packed out. Unfortunately it was narrow, booted and soft, so I turned around after about 100'. [sigh] Back at the kiosk I headed down the well-packed trail towards Pudding Pond, hung a left at the intersection and then took another right that goes to Pillar To Pond. All that bit was quite good. The Pillar To Pond looked good and it appeared that someone had ridden it, so I headed in that direction. I walked the little bridge and at first it was was OK. Unfortunately the further I went, the narrower and softer it got until I finally had to walk. Fairly quickly I got to the spot where the trail runs close to the power lines and snowmobile tracks. I popped out there and started following the tracks back north. It was OK in places and soft in others. I took the right at the Peaked/Middle trail and rode up to the intersection. This trail was, as always, in great shape. The only downside was a soft of dog poop right in the middle of the trail! I didn't stop on the way up, but did stop and clean it off on the way back down. Interestingly enough there were several folks walking that just walked by, ignoring it. [arrggh] It may be time to check out the stuff behind Walmart and the Quarry soon. At least there will be snow machine trails to ride.

PS check out the neat insulated helmet cover. I'm trying it out for Choucas Hats and I really like it. With that and one of their thin beanie hats, my head stays toasty warm. Stay tuned.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20200220/bike.jpg

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Winter alpinism is hard enough without the added dilemma of free-climbing ethics.
Barry Blanchard
NEClimbs on Facebook
NEClimbs on Facebook
RSS Reader Feed
RSS Feed for NEClimbs, the New England rock and ice climbing resource
International Mountain Climbing School
The ACCESS Fund, Protect America's Climbing
Mount Washington Valley Climbers Cooperative
International Mountain Equipment
NorthEast Mountaineering
Sponsors & Donors
View Current List