NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 6:29a on 03/02/21 - Temperature: --- °F - Wind speed: --- mph - Wind chill: --- °F - Barometric pressure: 29.666 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: --- %
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
International Mountain Climbing Schoolthe American Alpine ClubSavage Mountain GearFriends Of The LedgesInternational Mountain Equipment
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February 27, 2020

Hi Folks,

So we've gotten over an inch of slush in the last 12 hours and right now (4:30pm) it's 40 degrees and sunny! All this in spite of predictions from every weather pundit for generally 4-8 inches minimum of snow. There was some discussion regarding where the snow/rain line might be, but this was completely wacky. That said, whatever we got, it's made a mess! And I mean a REAL MESS.

It's supposed to get colder tonight, be warmish tomorrow day, and then colder Friday night. What does all this mean for the ice? Frankly a whole week of very warm weather has taken a toll. The ice isn't gone, but for sure it's hurting.

I did get out with Matt Bowman on Monday morning. The original plan was for Dropline, but it was REALLY warm and I mean like 50+ degrees and sunny warm! In spite of that there was a party on that climb and we had no interest in Standard, tho there were multiple parties in t-shirts on it. So, we opted for something in the shade - and that was Hobbit and the Pegasus Rock Finish. Matty took Hobbit and polished it off in perfect style. That said, just after he got to the low-angle snowy bit after the steeper ice in the lower gully, Gandalf let loose on the right wall! Quite a lot of very fragmented ice & snow came down and just missed him. I was able to duck behind the little rock buttress & it all went over my head. [whew] I followed the pitch and we rapped down to the ring anchor to the start of the Rock Finish pitch. I took that pitch and it was really nice. I used to do it a lot and I remembered all of the hooks and slots. I do think the pitons should be replaced however. I wouldn't be surprised if they are the originals. Here's some pictures and a link to some video that Matt and I took and that he processed. He's really good at that. Enjoy...
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 25, 2021
It really does feel a little more like mid-March than late February right now, tho this really has to do with a couple of sunny days with temps in the 40's. Of course that's not really a bad thing, as long as it stays cool at night and we don't get any rain. But stay tuned... In general tho the ice is in good shape right now, with a few exceptions where the climbs have been in full sun over the past couple of warm days. The thing to be aware of is that there are places where the ice is punky and snowcone-like or has become undermined. But as long as you are paying attention, you'll be OK. Frankly early to mid-March is really my favorite time to climb. There's nothing like those longer days, more moderate temps and plastic ice. And the occasional warm day when you can get out on some warm early-season rock! What's not to like?
Huntington Ravine IN  
Repentance questionable Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Just forget it, at least for a couple of days. It was soft enough earlier in the week, but now if you try to ride it will make the trail a disaster.

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Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

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Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

Mountaineering /n./ slow walking uphill while not feeling very well.
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