NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
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October 8, 2020

Hi Folks,

The North wind has been very gusty all day, with the temperature dropping from the mid 60's to the low 40's as the afternoon has worn on and it looks like we're going to get a hard freeze here in the Valley tonight. There is really no reason now to cover anything so I spent most of the afternoon taking all the remaining tarragon, scallions, peas, basil and cherry tomatoes from the garden. I will truly miss all the fresh vegetables I had all summer, but it is THAT time.

CLIMBING4CHANGE:
Climbers of the North East; in a time where our country feels more divided than ever, let's unite our community in a show of support for JEDI principles in the outdoors. Climbing4Change is a non-profit that was started by Kai Lightner with the mission of breaking down barriers to the amazing sport of climbing. This event was organized in an effort to to bring our community together, raise money for C4C, and help make climbing a more accessible and inclusive sport. While we are at it, lets have some fun and challenge each other to attempt this link-up.

Here is how to participate:

1. Donate to climbing4change.org
2. Promote JEDI principles
3. Fill out an IMCS release form at IME
4. Attempt the link-up of Whitehorse - North Moat - Cathedral
5. Report back to IME with your team name, time, combined team age, etc... 6. Have a chance to win some prizes at the end of the month.

This event lasts the month of October. That means you can participate on your own schedule and do it multiple times. Not a climber but support JEDI principles? You can still show support and make a donation to climbing4change, I did.

For more details please visit the web site, or Facebook.

https://climbing4change.org/
https://www.facebook.com/events/417293035907873/

STEWARDSHIP a.k.a. CLIFF CLEANUP:
I received an email this week from the Friends Of The Ledges. They will be doing cleanup and trail maintenance events starting at 9am on the third Saturday's in September, October and November. "The increase in visitors to Cathedral Ledge State Park and Echo Lake State Park spurred by the COVID-19 pandemic has created a more critical need for trash clean-up and trail maintenance within these beloved natural areas." Boy I sure agree with this. You can read more about it and signup here:

https://www.signupgenius.com/go/10c0d4faea62aa1fdc43-stewardship
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine numerous options  
Repentance iffy  
Standard Route GREAT conditions Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN & very fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

2021 ICE FEST:
People have been asking me if there will be an Ice Fest this year, so I asked Brad and the response was a resoundingly qualified YES. Needless to say with the Covid thing happening it will be quite different, but there almost assuredly will be something going on. So get those axes and crampons sharpened up and stay tuned for the details.

STEWARDSHIP a.k.a. CLIFF CLEANUP:
The Friends Of The Ledges are sponsoring cleanup and trail maintenance events starting at 9am on the third Saturday's in October and November. "The increase in visitors to Cathedral Ledge State Park and Echo Lake State Park spurred by the COVID-19 pandemic has created a more critical need for trash clean-up and trail maintenance within these beloved natural areas." Please signup here:

https://www.signupgenius.com/go/10c0d4faea62aa1fdc43-stewardship

SOME LOCAL/NATIONAL PANDEMIC THOUGHTS:
7,578,203 confirmed cases in the US, 212,286 American citizens are dead and 1,058,508 reported deaths world-wide from the Novel Corona Virus as of Thursday October 8th! Over the past 7 days New Hampshire has had 465 new cases of the virus, 7 new death and our positivity rate is 1.72%, up double from last week!

The local school district, SAU-9, just announced today (Oct 8th) that a positive case of Covid-19 has been reported at Kennett High School here in North Conway. We have been very fortunate so far to have almost no cases up here. I'm concerned that this is about to change. Although the numbers have gradually going up in the southern and middle of our state, Nashua and Manchester especially, it was just a matter of time before it moved further north. With the number of tourists still visiting, the restaurants/bars now reopening to full capacity and the weather moving people more indoors it's not at all surprising.

The virus is here in the Valley, and probably has been. It's almost certain that there will not be widespread distribution of a reliable vaccine until at least the middle of 2021. The goal now is obviously to keep safe through this upcoming winter. With everyone getting ready to move back inside for the duration, we will all have to take rigorous precautions.

The Johns Hopkins COVID-19 tracking map:

https://coronavirus.jhu.edu/us-map

I find JHU's Daily COVID-19 Data in Motion report to be very informative. It shares critical data on COVID-19 from the last 24 hours in a short 1 minute animated video format.

https://coronavirus.jhu.edu/covid-19-daily-video

WEAR A MASK, SANITIZE AND STAY PHYSICALLY DISTANT FRIENDS!

REMEMBER - WE ARE ALL IN THIS TOGETHER

VALLEY CYCLING:
I did several local rides this week but got in a particularly nice ride on Tuesday with my buddy Phil and his wife. Over the years we always ride the East Pasture Loop in Jackson at least once and since the ride is on logging roads and ski trails, it was easy to keep our distance. This year we were a bit later than usual so the leaves were not quite as spectacular as they usually are, but still nice. The stats were 7.94 miles, 1,085 ft elevation gain in 1h 54m. Not too bad. There were a few fairly large trees down, but nothing that was impassable. There is a bunch of logging going on up there, so you had to keep an eye out for big trucks and skidders in the first mile of the ride. The first half is all pretty solidly uphill, but the last third is fun downhill.

Here's a picture and map: http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20201008/Bike_1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20201008/Bike_2.jpg

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20201001/JeffersonNotch.jpg

INSTANT BUG REPORT - Bug CON 0:
Done for...

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


The isolation of our situation, and the size of the wilderness beneath us, intensified our strength. For a moment I felt omniscient above the world.
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