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After weeks of above average temps, it's finally gotten quite cold out there. And it's going to get colder over the next several days! The sustained cold temps, as well as some more snow, is just what the Ice Doctor ordered.
I was fortunate to be able to get out this Monday and climb Dropline with Matt Bowman. I've led it 3 times over the past 15 years and it was great to lay back and just follow him up it. He did a superb job and as always the climbing was a gas. I've always felt that getting up to the start of the column is in many ways the crux of the climb. There is little if any protection and the climbing borders on Grade 4. It's similar in that respect to Machine. The first 50+ feet are the business. [wry grin] We did it using a single 70 meter rope, so you can do the whole thing in a single go. I kind of like doing it that way because I really don't like going over to the tree belay on the left and making the rock traverse back right onto the pillar. But if all you have are 60's, that's what you need to do. Here's a link to his little video of me finishing it off and a picture I took of him in the middle.
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
iffy
Standard Route
GREAT conditions
Dracula
IN & very fat
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
As always the full set of pictures are on Facebook and NEClimbs.
SOME LOCAL/NATIONAL PANDEMIC THOUGHTS:
I am gratified when I go out climbing and I see other climbers wearing masks when they around other climbers. I'm not saying that you need to wear it all the time. Just when you're at a belay with your partner, when you bring someone up and they are going to pass right next to you, when you're walking in or out in close or reasonably close proximity, or any time you're standing around with others like top-roping. It's smart, respectful and quite frankly it's the right thing to do.
And PS, even if you're a guide, please just wear the mask. You set the tone for the day. By doing so, you make your client understand that you take their health and safety seriously. It's exactly like wearing a helmet...
Thank you...
New Hampshire:
12 new death
925 new cases
Total deaths 962
Active cases 6,204
240 patients are currently hospitalized.
US:
Confirmed Cases: 24,552,405
Total Deaths: 408,382
Global:
Confirmed Cases: 97,283,614
Total Deaths: 2,084,400
I find JHU's Daily COVID-19 Data in Motion report to be very informative. It shares critical data on COVID-19 from the last 24 hours in a short 1 minute animated video format.
WEAR A MASK, SANITIZE AND STAY PHYSICALLY DISTANT FRIENDS!
REMEMBER - WE ARE ALL IN THIS TOGETHER
VALLEY CYCLING:
Many of the hiking and bike trails on the east side are in generally good shape. However, other than the Marshall area, stuff on the west side isn't as good. We need a little more snow for the snow machines to be able to get out there & pack things down. Once that happens it's going to open up a lot more good riding.
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
