NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 5:29p on 02/26/21 - Temperature: 28.6 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 28.6 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.372 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Rapidly - Humidity: 27 %
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
International Mountain EquipmentMount Washington Valley Climbers CooperativeMooney Mountain GuidesFriends Of The LedgesSavage Mountain Gear
S U B S C R I B E
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January 21, 2021

Hi Folks,

After weeks of above average temps, it's finally gotten quite cold out there. And it's going to get colder over the next several days! The sustained cold temps, as well as some more snow, is just what the Ice Doctor ordered.

I was fortunate to be able to get out this Monday and climb Dropline with Matt Bowman. I've led it 3 times over the past 15 years and it was great to lay back and just follow him up it. He did a superb job and as always the climbing was a gas. I've always felt that getting up to the start of the column is in many ways the crux of the climb. There is little if any protection and the climbing borders on Grade 4. It's similar in that respect to Machine. The first 50+ feet are the business. [wry grin] We did it using a single 70 meter rope, so you can do the whole thing in a single go. I kind of like doing it that way because I really don't like going over to the tree belay on the left and making the rock traverse back right onto the pillar. But if all you have are 60's, that's what you need to do. Here's a link to his little video of me finishing it off and a picture I took of him in the middle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oHBHFXKWjTE
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210121/Matty_Dropline.jpg
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 25, 2021
It really does feel a little more like mid-March than late February right now, tho this really has to do with a couple of sunny days with temps in the 40's. Of course that's not really a bad thing, as long as it stays cool at night and we don't get any rain. But stay tuned... In general tho the ice is in good shape right now, with a few exceptions where the climbs have been in full sun over the past couple of warm days. The thing to be aware of is that there are places where the ice is punky and snowcone-like or has become undermined. But as long as you are paying attention, you'll be OK. Frankly early to mid-March is really my favorite time to climb. There's nothing like those longer days, more moderate temps and plastic ice. And the occasional warm day when you can get out on some warm early-season rock! What's not to like?
Huntington Ravine IN  
Repentance questionable Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210121/AngelCakes.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210121/Frankenstein.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210121/LHMonkeyWrench.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210121/MtWebster_slabs.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210121/MtWillard.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210121/MtWillard_upperTier.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210121/Shoestring.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210121/Coffin.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210121/LastExit.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210121/WayInTheWilderness.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210121/Unicorn.jpg

As always the full set of pictures are on Facebook and NEClimbs.

SOME LOCAL/NATIONAL PANDEMIC THOUGHTS:
I am gratified when I go out climbing and I see other climbers wearing masks when they around other climbers. I'm not saying that you need to wear it all the time. Just when you're at a belay with your partner, when you bring someone up and they are going to pass right next to you, when you're walking in or out in close or reasonably close proximity, or any time you're standing around with others like top-roping. It's smart, respectful and quite frankly it's the right thing to do.

And PS, even if you're a guide, please just wear the mask. You set the tone for the day. By doing so, you make your client understand that you take their health and safety seriously. It's exactly like wearing a helmet...

Thank you...

New Hampshire:
12 new death
925 new cases
Total deaths 962
Active cases 6,204
240 patients are currently hospitalized.

US:
Confirmed Cases: 24,552,405
Total Deaths: 408,382

Global:
Confirmed Cases: 97,283,614
Total Deaths: 2,084,400


The Johns Hopkins COVID-19 tracking map:

https://coronavirus.jhu.edu/us-map

I find JHU's Daily COVID-19 Data in Motion report to be very informative. It shares critical data on COVID-19 from the last 24 hours in a short 1 minute animated video format.

https://coronavirus.jhu.edu/covid-19-daily-video

WEAR A MASK, SANITIZE AND STAY PHYSICALLY DISTANT FRIENDS!

REMEMBER - WE ARE ALL IN THIS TOGETHER

VALLEY CYCLING:
Many of the hiking and bike trails on the east side are in generally good shape. However, other than the Marshall area, stuff on the west side isn't as good. We need a little more snow for the snow machines to be able to get out there & pack things down. Once that happens it's going to open up a lot more good riding.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far they can go.
T. S. Eliot
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