NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 4:30p on 02/26/21 - Temperature: 29.8 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 29.8 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.334 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Rapidly - Humidity: 26 %
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
Savage Mountain GearFriends Of The LedgesInternational Mountain EquipmentEquinox Guiding Service LLCthe American Alpine Club
S U B S C R I B E
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February 18, 2021

Hi Folks,

So we had some weather come through earlier this week that I know was a disappointment for many. A good friend complained that "Texas got more snow than we did"! LOL While I guess that's true, this most recent one was only part of a series of storm systems that have dumped a fair amount of white stuff in the Valley and in the mountains.

The take away from this most recent storm is that pretty much everywhere up here got 2-5 inches of sleet-hail-rain-freezing rain! It was a mess. Fortunately I got out and did my cleanup late morning just as it was stopping. I say fortunately because in 1 hours it set up and became a frozen mess. I was shoveling in front of my house and the stuff on the steep front roof sloughed and covered my front stoop, blocking my front door and instantly turning into a surprisingly solid mass! [face palm]

So - what does this have to do with climbing you ask... Well that event, the storm not the slough, did a real number on the snowpack. It basically put this yuck-o 3" or so of crust on top of sugar-snow. You can literally hear a hollow sound as you walk on top of it, until you punch through. [sigh] It makes getting around in the woods difficult at best, treacherous at worst. So you will be a lot happier following someone who has already broken trail, and/or wearing snowshoes. I went out yesterday to check out what was happening over on Whitehorse. The Bryce Path was actually quite well packed out and very nice. But wandering around in the woods off the trail was a serious slog. And no, I had neither snowshoes nor Microspikes! And yes, what was I thinking? Not very smart Albert. But you all can learn from my mistakes, right? [wry grin]

I did make an attempt to climb on Monday With Matty Bowman and Mark Vanover. I've been watching Black Pudding and had some hope that it was in better shape than it had been 2 weeks ago. Unfortunately that was not the case. And in fact it was somewhat worse. I'm not hugely optimistic it will be climbable this season, and that makes me sad.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210218/BlackPudding_1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210218/BlackPudding_2.jpg

TREAD LIGHTLY February 25 @ 6:00 pm - 8:00 pm EST Free:
Winter Climbing in the Eastern White Mountains - Join Friends of the Ledges and the Access Fund in a community forum about winter climbing in the White Mountains.As more and more people discover the challenge and allure of cold weather climbing, there is an increasing concern about permanent rock damage caused by dry tooling and mixed climbing.

https://www.nhledges.org/event/tread-lightly-winter-climbing-in-the-eastern-white-mountains-online-community-forum/
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 25, 2021
It really does feel a little more like mid-March than late February right now, tho this really has to do with a couple of sunny days with temps in the 40's. Of course that's not really a bad thing, as long as it stays cool at night and we don't get any rain. But stay tuned... In general tho the ice is in good shape right now, with a few exceptions where the climbs have been in full sun over the past couple of warm days. The thing to be aware of is that there are places where the ice is punky and snowcone-like or has become undermined. But as long as you are paying attention, you'll be OK. Frankly early to mid-March is really my favorite time to climb. There's nothing like those longer days, more moderate temps and plastic ice. And the occasional warm day when you can get out on some warm early-season rock! What's not to like?
Huntington Ravine IN  
Repentance questionable Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

ThnX to Mark O'Donoghue for the shots of Mt Avalon taken on Wednesday. http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210218/Avalon_1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210218/Avalon_2.jpg

Here's one of Frank Dalhmyer from Bagels Plus, the best bagel shop in the area, on the ever elusive Drip In The Woods on the End Of Days Craig.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210218/DripInTheWoods_FrankD.jpg

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210218/CathedralLedge.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210218/Repentance_Remission.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210218/Diagonal_Mordor.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210218/Unicorn.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210218/Frankenstein.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210218/Frankenstein_Amphitheater.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210218/LHMonkeyWrench.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210218/MtWebster_slabs.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210218/MtWillard.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210218/MtWillard_UpperTier.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210218/Shoestring.jpg


As always the full set of regular pictures are on Facebook and NEClimbs.

SOME LOCAL/NATIONAL PANDEMIC THOUGHTS:
VACCINATION is the name of the game right now. Getting as many people vaccinated as possible to create herd immunity as well as getting the public to buy-in on the mask-sanitize-social-distance thing are critical. If we as a society would just do the latter we could literally to break the back of the virus. It's hard to keep doing this stuff, that's for sure. I've been basically alone for 11 months and frankly I'm tired of "staying strong". But I know it's the right thing to do, for myself and for society. I got my shot today and frankly it's the most exciting thing that's happened to me in a year. So get the vaccine as soon as it's offered, and continue to do the things that will help you and others stay safe. I feel strongly that it's the only way we're going to get out of this mess...

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20210218/vaccine.jpg

Just DO IT
Thank you...

New Hampshire:
12 new death(s) reported - only 5 from long term care facilities!
665 new cases reported
1,148 deaths total
3,372 Active cases
126 patients are currently hospitalized

US:
Confirmed Cases: 27,826,891
Total Deaths: 490,550

Global:
Confirmed Cases: 109,981,805
Total Deaths: 2,432,197

The Johns Hopkins COVID-19 tracking map:

https://coronavirus.jhu.edu/us-map

I find JHU's Daily COVID-19 Data in Motion report to be very informative. It shares critical data on COVID-19 from the last 24 hours in a short 1 minute animated video format.

https://coronavirus.jhu.edu/covid-19-daily-video

WEAR A MASK, SANITIZE AND STAY PHYSICALLY DISTANT FRIENDS!

REMEMBER - WE ARE ALL IN THIS TOGETHER

VALLEY CYCLING:
So I did ride a little just before the storm, but afterward - no way. Even walking around on the pack isn't possible right now unless the trails are fully packed. That will happen in a day or two tho, considering how many people are in town this week. The snow machine trails are pretty good now and I will likely get out tomorrow or Saturday to check some out.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


There are old climbers, there are bold climbers, but there are no old bold climbers!
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