NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 1. Climbs just coming in or only in upper elevations like Ravines.
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May 19, 2022

Hi Folks,

On Tuesday I took a ride up Crawford Notch to check on the fire at Frankenstein. FYI, and partly to see if Sawyer River Road and Mt Clinton Roads were open. I stopped in to chat with Bill King who owns the house at the top of Arethusa Road. Fortunately and somewhat surprisingly the fire hasn't affected his house or property. He said that Monday night they got 1.5" of rain which did help to knock the fire back a bit.

While I was talking with Bill, several teams of firefighters went in and out on the tracks towards Fang. There was no obvious smoke, but the director told me that the fire was underground along the cliff band and up on the ridge. We've had more rain since then, so hopefully that has made a difference. Reports on Wednesday indicate that the fire encompasses over 100 acres and was only 25% contained! As you can imagine, it's pretty difficult terrain to be dealing with. It's one thing to be clambering around in snow and ice with crampons and quite another in boots with shovels. Plus they can't get water up there, so it's all about scraping out fire lines! Let's hope for more rain...

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220519/Arethusa.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220519/BillKing.jpg

Some Notch pics:

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220519/Fang.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220519/StandardRoute.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220519/MtWillard.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220519/Webster_slabs.jpg

FWIW both of those roads were open. Here's also a few local pictures:

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220519/CathedralLedge.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220519/Humphreys.jpg
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective April 24, 2024
It's all over for 2023/2024.
Huntington Ravine OUT  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route OUT Click to see route picture.
Dracula OUT Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

CATHEDRAL LEDGE ROAD CLOSURE:
Cathedral Ledge Road will be closed from 5/31-6/2 for paving. I'm not sure where it will start, but be prepared to hoof in through the woods for a few days and DO NOT park in the housing development or, just like in the winter, you may be towed.

PEREGRINE CLIFF CLOSINGS:
I hadn't heard anything yet from Chris Martin about the list of closings for Peregrines this year, so I gave him a call. I participated in about 10 years of banding on the Painted Walls and Cathedral Ledge. The birds are incredible and well worth the relatively minimal time and inconvenience of protecting them. Here's a list of the primary areas that are currently restricted.

Rumney: Main Cliff
Cathedral Ledge: Repentance & Remission
Franconia Notch: The Eaglet Spire
Holt's Ledge: all is closed
Band M: The Steps area
Woodchuck: right side of cliff
Russell Craig: Main cliff
Frankenstein: none
Painted Walls: none
Whitehorse Ledge: none

Here's a few peregrine pictures I took over the years.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220519/Peregrine_1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220519/Peregrine_2.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220519/Peregrine_3.jpg

INSTANT BUG REPORT:
Clearly we're a 4 right now. If the black flies aren't going for you, the mosquitoes are. And then there are the caterpillars!! These little beasts aren't deterred by bug dope, DEET or otherwise, and they can cause some horrible rashes.

SOME LOCAL/NATIONAL PANDEMIC THOUGHTS:


Nothing more to say than this...

UNITED STATES DEATHS: 1,001,274

New Hampshire:
11 New death(s) reported
4,609 Active cases
41 Current hospitalizations for COVID
2,513 Total deaths due to COVID-19

United States:
Confirmed: 82,955,985
Deaths: 1,001,274

Global:
Confirmed: 525,505,350
Deaths: 6,284,006

The Johns Hopkins COVID-19 tracking map:

https://coronavirus.jhu.edu/us-map

I find JHU's Daily COVID-19 Data in Motion report to be very informative. It shares critical data on COVID-19 from the last 24 hours in a short 1 minute animated video format.

https://coronavirus.jhu.edu/covid-19-daily-video

OUR ONLY WAY OUT IS IF YOU GET VACCINATED, WHERE RECOMMENDED PLEASE STILL WEAR A MASK, WASH YOUR HANDS!

REMEMBER - WE ARE ALL IN THIS TOGETHER

VALLEY CYCLING:
I had work done on my car on Monday morning, so I got in another road ride down Passaconaway and up the Kanc to Rocky Gorge and back. I'm pretty nervous about being on the road, but there weren't many cars, so it felt OK. Marshall is in great shape now. Only a little mud, in spite of occasional deluges. I haven't ridden the East Side lately, but I understand that once you get around the work on the Rec Path, you are good to go. Sawyer River Road is open and in good shape now. Mt Clinton is also open and I heard that Jefferson Notch Road is as well. All are on my radar for the next week or two.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


The future of Yosemite climbing lies not in Yosemite, but in using the new techniques in the great granite ranges of the world.
Yvon Chouinard
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