NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
Friends Of The LedgesMount Washington Valley Climbers CooperativeMooney Mountain GuidesInternational Mountain Climbing Schoolthe American Alpine Club
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October 27, 2022

Hi Folks,

The weather has been funky, but it all blew away and the sky is downright lovely. There was a glow early this morning that was pretty special. I took a walk and was blown away, but of course I forgot my phone so I haven't got any pictures. There are lots of great ones on social media tho. There is a stout breeze and it's chilling down, so it will likely blow off the remaining leaves. It's supposed to get very cold tonight. perhaps the coldest night so far this fall.

I don't have a lot to say this week as I was away for the past 10 daze visiting family and friends to the south: Westchester NY, Brooklyn, Washington DC, Philadelphia and Maynard MA in that order. It was great seeing my sister and her family, a music friend that I've known for 50 years, one son in Brooklyn and another in Philly plus a quick stop in Maynard to get my bass setup by TJ Thompson, an outstanding luthier. Other than the drive back from Philly the weather was surprisingly good for the whole trip. Unfortunately it rained the whole day and night I was in Philly, plus the drive back north from there was all rain and fog. [sigh]

I spotted a big rock Gym near Park Slope in Brooklyn, but I didn't have time go check it out. It's definitely on my list for the next trip sometime in April. I also only heard about the climbing in Great Falls VA after I got to DC, with no real climbing gear other than shoes and chalk bag. Unfortunately with the rain in Philly I couldn't do my go to ride out to Manayunk or climb that great boulder off the parkway near downtown. [scowl] Fortunately I did bring the road bike, so I got in 3 good rides on the "W and OD" bike path in DC. I gotta say that's every bit as good as the one in Philly, and probably longer. While there I bought 3 day passes to the One Life Gym in Reston, just to keep the body feeling good. It's a huge gym with every machine and weight setup you could want and at $10/ day the price was right. All that sitting and driving really can do a number on my back and I'm kind of addicted to the gym these days. I'm actually going 3-4 days a week now and it really does help keep me feeling good.

Speaking of the gym, I've been hitting the one here in North Conway for the past 6 months. Someone gave me a bunch of routines that should do me good for ice season, plus I'm also doing a 15 minute stretching routine at the end of my workout that seems to help keep the muscles feeling good. My massage therapist was a climber and she has recommended a number of things to do that seem to help. At 75, you have to keep going. As they say once you stop, it's all downhill.

THE SANCTITY OF SPACE::
The new film by acclaimed filmmaker and writer Freddie Wilkinson is being shown at the Leura Hill Eastman Performing Arts Center in Fryeburg Maine on October 28th. Tickets are $10 at the door.

Leura Hill Eastman Performing Arts Center
18 Bradley Street, Fryeburg, ME, 04037

Tickets are available on line here -

https://kinema.com/events/the-sanctity-of-space-plqjzr/tickets

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20221013/Sanctity.jpg

SHAMELESS SELF PROMOTION:
I'll playing duo at the Majestic Theater Cafe in Conway Village on November 11th with master guitarist Randy Roos. Randy is a nationally acclaimed player who has performed with Pat Metheny, Gary Burton, Club d'Elf band and numerous other artists. He also teaches at Berklee. Don't miss this show.

In addition I will be playing with my band at the Wildcat Tavern in Jackson on Nov 3rd 7-10pm-ish for the occasion of my 75th birthday. WOO WOO. It's going to be a fun time, so swing by if you can.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine numerous options  
Repentance iffy  
Standard Route GREAT conditions Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN & very fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

VARIOUS OF INTEREST::
Matt Bowman's latest video of last year's ice season. If this doesn't get you psyched up for ice season, nothing will -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=5VR2EZCYYCY

Some thoughts about rebolting classic climbs. In this case Snake Dike -

https://www.climbing.com/people/retro-bolt-easy-moderate-rock-climbs-peter-croft-snake-dike-half-dome-debate/

Russell Crag closed to climbing -

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20221027/RussellCrag.jpg

INSTANT BUG REPORT: 0
There's nothing of any significance out there other than the usual heads-up for ticks, which ARE around...

SOME LOCAL/NATIONAL PANDEMIC THOUGHTS:
The New Hampshire COVID-19-positive patients in hospitals increased as of Tuesday.
https://www.wmur.com/article/new-hampshire-covid-19-cases-hospitalizations-deaths-101222/41604696

New Hampshire:
1 new deaths reported over the weekend
138 New cases
32 Current hospitalizations being treated for COVID
2,737 Total deaths due to COVID-19

United States:
Confirmed: 97,376,353
Deaths: 1,069,822 - UP 3,000!

Global:
Confirmed: 629,334,036
Deaths: 6,586,076

https://coronavirus.jhu.edu/us-map

I find JHU's Daily COVID-19 Data in Motion report to be very informative. It shares critical data on COVID-19 from the last 24 hours in a short 1 minute animated video format.

https://coronavirus.jhu.edu/covid-19-daily-video

OUR ONLY WAY OUT IS IF YOU GET VACCINATED, WHERE RECOMMENDED PLEASE STILL WEAR A MASK, WASH YOUR HANDS!

VALLEY CYCLING:
There's been a lot of rain over the past week and things are definitely muddy. The rain has also made a mess of much of the work that was done on the downhill trails in the Hurricane Zone. If you ride over the next several days as things start to dry out, please be aware that slamming around can make things worse, even on the normal cross country trails. RESPECT the trails...

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


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