NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
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April 6, 2023

Hi Folks,

Oh boy folks... Is it finished, over, completed, done-for? Should we "stick a fork in it"? [wry grin] The earliest known use of that classic expression was by American baseball player and commentator Dizzy Dean in the 1940s. He was referring to a pitcher who was doing a poor job: "You can stick a fork in him folks-he's done." Well, as your intrepid observer/commentator I gotta feel that we're pretty much at that point, or at the most we might get through the weekend...

There's still lots of stuff hanging out over the top of many of the early season rock warm-ups, and likely will be for a while. Here's what is on the Unicorn Ledge on Wednesday, just above the North End crack climbs: http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20230406/Unicorn.jpg

Needless to say it's not a good place to hang out. And yet I climbed Parasol Gully in Dixville Notch on Tuesday, and yes it was great. I posted some video on Instagram and FB of that. Here's some pictures:

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20230406/Parasol_1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20230406/Parasol_2.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20230406/Parasol_3.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20230406/Parasol_4.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20230406/Parasol_5.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20230406/Parasol_6.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20230406/Parasol_7.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20230406/Parasol_8.jpg

FWIW I had climbed it with Brad early in the season and it was in great shape then, but there was no parasol! Go figure... I have been wanting to solo it for years, but just never had the time or opportunity, but this was actually a perfect time for it - balmy 45 degrees, a bit cloudy, NO running water, consolidated snow... There even was a little "parasol" for a change, just to keep it entertaining. I trailed my 8mm rope, rapped off from the tree at the top down to just above the little middle ice bulge on the left, down-climbed the snow to just above the starting ice pitch and then walked off climbers-right and down the gully. Couldn't have been better. It may have been my last ice of this year since I'm not much for the Ravines these days.

That said here's a link to a tragic late season accident in Utah. Just to put things in a different perspective... https://nypost.com/2023/04/05/meg-oneill-crushed-by-ice-saving-another-climber-in-utah/

I have nothing more to say about this, it's simply too sad.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine numerous options  
Repentance iffy  
Standard Route GREAT conditions Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN & very fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20230406/CathedralLedge.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20230406/standardRoute.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20230406/dracula.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20230406/Frankenstein_Right.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20230406/MtWillard.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20230406/LHMonkeyWrench.jpg

Full Conditions Report

VALLEY CYCLING:
It's mud season now folks, so riding anywhere is a crap shoot. Just don't do things that will wreck any trails. The upper hillsides with a southern aspect like Rattlesnake and Swamp are probably your best bets. The local NEMBA group in association with the other area bike clubs is having a party and fundraiser for their grooming efforts. The fat bike trails here in the Valley and up around Gorham/Berlin are amazing. Please come out and support their efforts. A great band I play with is going to be there and I hope you can make it... http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20230406/GroomerBall.jpg

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Boulder /n./ place close to the ground to practice falling. When climbers aren't climbing, they like to sharpen their skills by bouldering on large rocks located in places frequented by impressionable tourists. Because bouldering is done without protection, the rule is never to climb higher than you'd like to fall. That is why so many climbers stand around discussing boulder problems instead of climbing them.
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