NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
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May 11, 2023

Hi Folks,

After a mostly be-u-ti-ful week we're going to get a little rain on Friday. But considering how dry things have been for several days, that might not be a bad thing - and certainly at least for my garden. That's AS LONG AS we don't get another gully-washer like we just had. But today is nice and that's what matters.

When I say gully-washer, I am truly not at all being facetious. As I reported last week, the storms we had made a major mess of numerous roads and trails. When you drive into North Conway on River Road you can see the cones protecting you from the washout on the right side of the road. This is not the only place that took a hit in the area. As I mentioned last week, a big chunk of the Mount Washington Auto Road washed out and they have been really scrambling to repair it so they can open this Saturday - apparently they are on schedule.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20230511/Whitehorse_1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20230511/Whitehorse_2.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20230511/Cathedral.jpg

Perhaps you've noticed the haze in the air lately. Look at the pics above for example... This is due to smoke blowing all the way across country from large scale wildfires in Alberta Canada similar to what happened in California a few years ago. As of Tuesday, over 24,000 people evacuated their homes in the sparsely populated, mostly northern areas of the province. At that time 88 active wildfires were burning across nearly one million acres!

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20230511/Smoke-map-North-America-May-9-2023-airnow.jpg
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine numerous options  
Repentance iffy  
Standard Route GREAT conditions Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN & very fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

INSTANT BUG REPORT - 1:
The blackflys are starting to swarm, but so far I haven't been bitten. [whew] I have bee our riding and gardening and also haven't seen much in the way of mosquitoes. Perhaps that's due to it still remaining on the chilly side at night. That won't last of course. BUT the ticks are another matter. I've only gotten a couple on me, but my friends who are out much more have had a LOT. I think that they are the much bigger worry this year. Be vigilant with the bug dope and inspections every time you're out there, even just in the yard!

VALLEY CYCLING:
As I mentioned before, many local bike trails took a hit from last week's weather. The trails off Hurricane Mt Road are still a mess and closed, but after a bunch of trail work some may be reopened on Sunday. That's not all. Even after days of dry weather there were lots of muddy sections in Whittaker Woods when I rode in there a few days ago. My understanding is that a portion of the High School Loop on the West Side has washed away. That said the stuff in the higher elevations like Rattlesnake and Twilight Zone/OL are generally OK.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


My father considered a walk among the mountains as the equivalent of churchgoing.
Aldous Huxley
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