NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
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June 1, 2023

Hi Folks,

The Valley has been smokey for the past couple of days from the Forest Service burn going on up near the Moats, not to mention from the Canadian fires out west and now even in Nova Scotia! Couple that with close to 90 degree temps and it's a bit unpleasant. With everything as dry as it's been, it's also a bit nerve-racking for those of us over here on the West Side of the Valley. For now it seems to be under control. Fingers X-ed!!!

I've had some nagging back/neck stuff going on, and coupled with so many music gigs I haven't been climbing other than a little bouldering. I'm hoping that changes in the next week or so 'cause I am Jonesin' to be on rock again. Fortunately back doesn't bother be when I'm riding or I would be a VERY grumpy Al! Stay tuned...

ACCIDENTS::
Over the Memorial Day weekend there were lots of folks out hiking and climbing and enjoying the great weather. Unfortunately there were 2 significant climbing accidents requiring rescues and a hiking incident. The hiker was assisted down the Middle Mountain Trail and did not require a carry-out. One climbing accident occurred while leading P2 of Retaliation in the Barber Wall area. It's not clear which climb they were on. Report indicated that several pieces of gear failed and they fell nearly 50'! They were evacuated by MRS, Bartlett Fire & Rescue, North Conway Fire and Bartlett Police and taken to Memorial Hospital. The second climbing incident was at Sundown Ledge in Albany, off the Kanc. It's not clear what exactly happened, but the leader fell 20+' and sustained significant lower extremity injuries, requiring extraction by Fish & Game and other groups. He was also evacuated to Memorial Hospital.

Stay safe out there peeps...

SHAMELESS MUSICAL PLUG::
Tonight, Thursday June 1st, I will be at the Leura Hill Eastman PAC at Fryeburg Academy with the Mike Levine Miami Spice band. It's a very exciting Latin Jazz sextet that plays original music and a few arrangements plus features Latin Grammy winner Richie Bravo on percussion. I've known and played with Mike since the mid-70's and he is an amazing composer and pianist. Don't miss this show. The same band will be at BLUE in Portland on Saturday June 4th at 9pm.

NOTE I will be playing every Wednesday through the summer from 5:30-7:30 with a fun trio at the Saco River Brewing Company in Fryeburg. We will be jamming on a wide variety of tunes and it's a real gas. Not to mention that the beer is GREAT! Climb at Jockey Cap and come by for tunes and refreshments. PS there has been a fantastic food truck there as well.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine numerous options  
Repentance iffy  
Standard Route GREAT conditions Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN & very fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

INSTANT BUG REPORT - 3:
YIKES - the damnable b/f are out AND they ARE BITING!!! I've been on the bike and in the garden this week, and without bug dope you are going to be unhappy. Couple that with vicious mosquitoes and you don't want to stop moving! You have been warned...

VALLEY CYCLING:
Right now the riding has been great. The East Side, West Side and Hurricane Zones are all happening. The only place that's not are the trails behind Cedar Creek and up by the Moats because F/S has been doing a prescribed burn up there and it's off limits. By the weekend things should be OK, tho I believe that you would be well served to give trails like Ultimate Single Track and Tent Boulder a week. If you haven't checked out the new paved Rec Trail on the East Side I recommend it. You can start at Hemlock, ride all the way to where it connects to Sticks & Stones and come back through the woods. Or head up the Peaked Trail to connect to Sidehill and come across that way past the quarry. This is a great addition to the Valley and is already being used by lots of folks.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


It is to conquer fear that one becomes a climber. The climber experiences life to its extreme. A climber is not crazy. He is not out to get himself killed. He knows what life is worth. He is in love with living.
Walter Bonatti
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