NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
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December 21, 2023

Hi Folks,

Here we sit after yet another major rain event, we are in a full recovery mode. While not a hurricane, like Irene, it had even more impact on the infrastructure in our community. A number of people lost their homes to flooding, and since this is happening literally a week before the Xmas holiday, the impact on business will be significant.

I have lived in the Valley for 27 years and I haven't seen this much rain and flooding. The river was running over the middle of the Schartner strawberry fields, which I've never seen before.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20231221/StrawberryFields.jpg

Not only did the warmup and 4"+ of rain wash away pretty much all the ice and a significant portion of the snow, like Irene it has caused Rt 302 through Crawford Notch to be closed. The little bridge across Bemis Brook, 1/4 mile below the Arethusa Falls road, was severely damaged and there was a rockfall above the Willey House. While once again the climbing community is worried about access to Frankenstein, the bigger concern is the inability of both tourists and workers to get up to the Bretton Woods. According to the State DOT almost 10,000 cars use the road A DAY! It could not have come at a worse time. And at this point it is not clear how long it will be closed. Fortunately it is not as big a washout the one from Irene was, but the bridge abutments were significantly damaged and it is apparently unstable. Here are a few pictures.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20231221/302-b.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20231221/302-d.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20231221/RR_tracks.jpg

And yet today was a beautiful day, tho never above freezing...

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20231221/Whitehorse.jpg

Unfortunately the long range forecast isn't great. [sigh]

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20231221/forecast.jpg
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine numerous options  
Repentance iffy  
Standard Route GREAT conditions Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN & very fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20231221/CathedralLedge-1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20231221/CathedralLedge-2.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20231221/CathedralLedge-3.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20231221/northEnd.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20231221/trollville.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20231221/goofers.jpg

The usual pictures will be on NEClimbs.com and FaceBook if available.

VALLEY CYCLING:
YIKES - The trails that were just getting in shape, are now muddy. We will have to wait till they dry out, or we get some snow.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


All ice is dangerous. Grade 4 pillars are pumpy. Grade 5 pillars are pumpy and dangerous. Except for certain rare days of triple-high biorythms and favorable planetary alignments, grade 6 is beyond reach.
Dougal McDonald
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