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I hate to repeatedly have the main topic of conversation between everyone I talk to be about the weather. Sure, the climate has been changing a lot over the past several years, and yes, not for the better. There often have been seasons where we've had rain & warm up events into January, but for some reason this seems different. This was the warmest December and wettest on record. And altho we are finally getting some snow, it has unfortunately been accompanied by torrential rains and a following day or two of abnormally warm temps. [sigh]
I think in particular the report and the pictures from the Avalanche Center about conditions on Mt Willard yesterday (1/9) are well worth perusing. I have moved through this particular space probably hundreds of times in my 35 years of climbing in this area. From what I can tell it appears to be right around the East Face Slabs left of Upper Hitchcock. This is a place where I always have my "spidey senses" on high alert and at times I've been concerned. I have seen Cinema avalanche, but not here! Needless to say it is significantly concerning!
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
iffy
Standard Route
GREAT conditions
Dracula
IN & very fat
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
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Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
