NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
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March 7, 2024

Hi Folks,

Put A Fork In It my friends. It's almost time to move on to black flies and mud. Am I happy about it, hardly. But that seems to be the reality of our situation right now. [shrug] Just keep an open eye for the possibility of any leftover ice above you, and think about dry granite on places like the South Buttress and Humphreys.

Here are 2 pics of Black Pudding Gully. One of me following it on 3/2/2022 and a second of me leading it from last year on 3/16/2023. That said, within a week the ice was either mostly gone, or well on the way. [sigh]

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240307/BlackPudding_20220302.JPG
pic by Matty Bowman

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240307/BlackPudding_20230316.jpg
pic by Tom Callaghan

BTW, when I mention mud, I really mean it! I don't think we haven't had a real mud season in quite some time, but it is happening now! Trails are muddy and already many roads are closed or marked for load limits. Day before yesterday I was going past one of the farm houses kind of across from the Marshall area and someone's car was up to their axels in mud. Pretty clearly they were going to need a tow truck to get them out. Be very careful about where you try to drive right now.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine numerous options  
Repentance iffy  
Standard Route GREAT conditions Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN & very fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240307/Whitehorse_1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240307/Whitehorse_2.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240307/goofers.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240307/CathedralLedge.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240307/Unicorn.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240307/Frankenstein_Amphitheater.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240307/standardRoute.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240307/Dropline_Machine.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240307/Frankenstein_RightSide.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240307/LHMW.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240307/MtWillard.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240307/flumeCascade.jpg

Of course the usual pictures will be on NEClimbs.com and FaceBook if available.

VALLEY CYCLING:
It's certainly not a good time to ride anywhere other than possibly on some snowmobile trails early in the morning or at night. It is just too soft right now. And even when the snow is gone, give the trails time to dry out so you don't make a mess of them. ThnX...

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240307/Sawyer_RR.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240307/BearNotchRoad.jpg

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Today's climber... carries his courage in his rucksack... Faith in equipment has replaced faith in oneself.
Reinhold Messner
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