NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
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May 24, 2024

Hi Folks,

Mid 80's on Tuesday, right at 90 degrees on Wednesday and upper 80's on Thursday! We do on occasion get these kinds of fluctuations in weather & temps, but they are absolutely getting more prevalent. But honestly, can it really be that it's already Hotter Than July?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ep54oygyLl4&list=PLDo07Ios8tCD7n7hx53Pedgov1XrORxHY

Welp it sure feels that way! I was riding through Echo Lake a few daze ago and stopped to chat with the rangers doing some cleanup. There are trees and debris still down across the trails and generally everywhere. Plus the lake is VERY high now. Probably higher than I've ever seen it. The ranger said that basically there is "no beach" right now! Go figure.

I've mentioned before that I was gone for 2 1/2 weeks at the first of April, right after the big wet snow that we had. And there are still trails with trees across them and piles of debris alongside the roads. I have gone down to Boston 2x over the past couple of weeks and have noticed how many trees are down on the sides of the roads. It's quite something... At least most of the bike trails are rideable now.

THE OLD ONES:
Several years ago, after the last of our aunts passed away, my sister and I were chatting about how another of the chapters in our family history were gone. I opined that all of the "old ones" were gone. She replied that now "we are the old ones", and I guess that is even truer now...

I was chatting with a couple of old friends last night and brought up several Boston area climbers I haven't seen or heard about for some time: Bill Atkinson and Will Crowther. I figured that both had to be well into their 80's, or even perhaps older. It turns out that they both are still alive and kicking, much like my dear friend George Hurley. I know most of you know who George is, but for those of you who don't know anything about Will or Bill, check out these links:

Bill Atkinson - https://atkinsopht.wordpress.com/

Bill Atkinson isn't known for putting up routes. He was an engineer, climber/mountaineer, prolific writer and very involved in the Boston AMC. Many of his articles documented much of the New England climbing history. I urge you to read some of his stories on his web site.

Will Crowther - https://www.mountainproject.com/search?q=Crowther&type=routes

Will, on the other hand, was a computer programmer, climber as well as accomplished spelunker. His programming accomplishments include a lot of seminal work on ARPAnet, the precursor to the modern Internet, and the text based computer game Adventure. Some of his climbing first ascents some of my favorite climbs, including Arrow, Hawk, Moonlight and Senté at the Gunks as well as Wedge and Sliding Board on Whitehorse.

AND A YOUNG ONE - LEE HANSCHE RIP:
A very few days ago, on May 21, 2024, 46 year old Lee Hansche was involved in a tragic accident while setting routes at Vertical Dreams climbing gym. I have not yet seen any details of exactly what happened. I didn't actually know him personally, but from what I understand he was a very very good person who touched many people.

Lee Hansche accident

INSTANT BUG REPORT - 3:
I've been holding back on increasing the Bug Rating but not it's finally popped! Sitting outside last night there were no bugs, but 5 minutes moving brush around in my yard this morning has changed my view. The black flys are out there in force. So please be advised that bug dope is now de rigueur! You have been warned!
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine numerous options  
Repentance iffy  
Standard Route GREAT conditions Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN & very fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

MUSICAL NOTES:
This Saturday, Memorial Day weekend, I'll be playing with the Jim McLaughlin Group for the 200 year celebration of the town of Randolph. There are 2 bands and a lot of stuff going on. The first band starts at 1pm, and we play from 3-5. The address is 11 Coldbrook Road, at Bradley's Farm near Durand Road. Go for a climb at Mt Forest and then come out and enjoy the afternoon/evening.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240523/Randolph_Jim.jpg

VALLEY CYCLING:
There are still trails with debris here & there, but overall things are good. Even many of the downhill trails off Hurricane Mt Road are looking pretty good. I've done several on the east & west side and feel as if things are moving in the right direction. Interestingly enough, the water level in Echo Lake is amazingly high, even intruding into the encircling trails - plus the beach is hardly even there right now! SHEESH

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Instead of sport climbing I go bouldering. It's pure, and basically impossible to cheat. Bolts can't be used to manipulate the experience. Sure, I sometimes take a thicker crash pad but I still have to take the fall.
Johnny Blitz
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