NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
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June 20, 2024

Hi Folks,

If you live out in Glacier National Park Montana, that's cool! [LOL] Mainly 'cause they just got over a foot of snow! [NO kidding] But that is hardly the case in most of the rest of the country. I'm sure wherever most of you live these days, but up here it's freaking HOT. And I am really NOT kidding... Yesterday here in NoCo it was 100 and very humid and today it's close to the same.

Of course this old fool decided to do a little raking early in the morning and then head over to Cranmore to try and grab a couple of downhill runs when the open at 10 before the "heat of the day"! Sounds good, right? Raking went well and it wasn't all that hot at 8am. I was mostly in the shade in front of the house, drank some iced Gatorade and took it easy. Then I hung in the house for an hour, loaded the bike in the car and headed to the bike park. Being sure to slather on sun screen and pack a full bottle of Gatorade with lots of ice. The first run was fine and there was a little bit of a breeze for the ride up in the chair. The second run was really good, but the ride up was hotter and of course I was drinking all the time. The ride up for my 3rd run was BRUTAL with no breeze and in full on sun! Sure drinking helped, but not enough. I decided that was my last run and really took it easy on the way down.

I stopped to chat with someone when I got down, but started feeling wiggy and headed back to my car where I spent 15 minutes sitting in the back in the shade, drinking now-lukewarm Gatorade and recovering. [YIKES] I got the bike back in the car and then drove around for 15 minutes in the AC cooling down. When I got home I sat in front of the fan for a while and took a cold shower, reflecting on how this was probably NOT a good idea. The weather and news folks have been repeatedly warning about how easy it is to get in over your head in weather like this, especially if you're older - like me I guess. I keep hydrated and am generally careful, but I obviously underestimated what even moderate exercise in 100 degree temps can be like. And of course the air quality being generally crappy doesn't help, does it?

Everybody has a different tolerance for heat, but this weather is different. So I am just passing my experience along... As an aside, here's a few pictures from today. 88 degrees in Crawford Notch at 11 and 96 degrees in the Valley at noon!

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240620/CathedralLedge.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240620/Humphreys.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240620/Frankenstein_Amphitheater.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240620/StandardRoute.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240620/MtWillard.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240620/SilverCascade.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240620/MtWashington.jpg

Not a lot of water in the rivers and it's very hazy.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine numerous options  
Repentance iffy  
Standard Route GREAT conditions Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN & very fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

JOE LENTINI INTERVIEW - PART 2:
Part 2 of the excellent interview with Joe Lentini about a new short film 109 Below and discussion of the local Mountain Rescue Service has been posted on line. This is well worth the time to watch.

https://www.conwaydailysun.com/interviews/joe-lentini-on-mountain-rescuers-and-the-new-short-film-109-below-part-2/video_83ebbd88-229b-11ef-8f83-0f506bc530dd.html

U.S. Forest Service - White Mountain National Forest: Please be aware that Cold River Campground is closed to all use until July 31 for public safety and to protect nesting wildlife. Located near Fryeburg, Maine, Basin, and Hastings Campgrounds are alternative options for camping in the Evans Notch area at this time.

CLIFF CLEANUP SATURDAY JUNE 22:
Stewardship Project and Cliff Cleanup season, and we’d love to have your help out there! Saturday, June 22nd. Meet at the Cathedral Ledge picnic tables at 3:00pm. We’ll work from 3 - 6, and then we’ll move on to grilling and hanging out! We will be replacing some broken wood steps on the trail to Recompense, and removing some graffiti at the top of the cliff. We’ll also have trash bags and gloves available for picking up trash and getting it looking nice over there! Wear sturdy shoes, and bring work gloves, snacks, and plenty of water. If you can’t make it, or aren’t interested in doing trail work, please stop by at 6 for the BBQ, this is a community event for everyone!

INSTANT BUG REPORT - 4:
The black flys are BRUTAL!!!!

MUSICAL NOTES:
WEATHER PERMITTING I'm with the Jim McLaughlin Group at Rosa Flamingos in Bethlehem on Thursday, then with my trio at the majestic Cafe in Conway Village on Friday and on Saturday at Ledge Brewing in Intervale. Almost all of our band gigs this summer are early and outside. The bands and music is great. I hope to see some of you...

VALLEY CYCLING:
The Forest Service will temporarily close a small portion of Electric Loop on the West side to protect nesting wildlife until July 31. Signs will be up, and it's very important that we adhere to this trial closure. Please share, and as always, we appreciate your cooperation and understanding.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


The Puking Gecko, Grand Wall, *** S9 5.12d/e 712m - An intimidating and salacious climb. The final pitch is so exposed, tricky, and continuously strenuous that it is impossible to even contact the rock at any point. Better than making passionate love on top of a Japanese Bullet Train. Superbly magnificent and grimly brilliant.
Andy Cairns
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