NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
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July 25, 2024

Hi Folks,

It rained off and on yesterday and when I got up this morning it was foggy and drizzling. Looks like it will clear off later today and that will likely hold through the weekend. [YES!] At least we had some nice weather from the end of last week through the weekend. Both Saturday and Sunday were nice, and even Monday was fine - tho hot!

I headed down to Wolfeboro on Monday morning to climb with George Hurley. I try to go once a month, tho we don't always get to climb. This time we went to Rines Hill, only 6 miles from his house. I've been there many times with him and others and he goes there regularly. It was a warm day, mid 80's, and so I wanted to climb something in the shade. Like going to the Geriatric Walls on Humphreys last week with Lovena. If George doesn't have a partner he will top rope solo one of the climbs there, often one he and friends put up. We started with me leading Dike Step, a nice and easy, but well-protectable route in the amphitheater right where you walk in. I've done it a number of times and it's always a good warmup. As we were finishing Dike Step, our friend Jim Nup showed up to join in the party.

George put a TR on Layback, 2 climbs left. All of us have led it in the past, but for 5.8 (?) it's a fairly serious undertaking. The crux is awkward and somewhat difficult to protect. One of our friends took a pretty serious fall on it several years ago, so we're all pretty cautious. I led the climb to its left, Moss Face, which is a nice 5.6 (?) It has one interesting move as well. The George led his climb Borderline, just right of Dike Step. It's a well protected 5.9 with the crux very near the top. As always, he floated it. And George also led Standard Route (5.7) that's around the corner, left of Moss Face. As always, he made it look easy.

There is a reason I say that George is one of my idols. At 89 he is still a solid climber, at least on routes that he knows, and I trust him belaying me. Watching him climb is a lesson in efficiency. There is a video on Instagram and Facebook of him on Borderline. Here are a few pictures...

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240725/George.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240725/Borderline_George_1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240725/Borderline_George_2.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240725/Borderline_George_3.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240725/Borderline_George_4.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240725/Borderline_George_5.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240725/Layback_Jim.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240725/StandardRoute_George_1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20240725/StandardRoute_George_2.jp
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine numerous options  
Repentance iffy  
Standard Route GREAT conditions Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN & very fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

INSTANT BUG REPORT - 4:
NASTY - NASTY

MUSICAL NOTES:
Weather permitting I will be at Rosa Flamingo in Bethlehem tonight, Thursday, with the Jim McLaughlin Trio from 5:30-8:30. Then on Friday at the Majestic Cafe in Conway with my jazz trio 7-9. And finally on Sunday evening with the Rob Ames Quintet on the boardwalk at Weirs Beach from 7-9. I'm very fortunate to have all these fun musical events this summer, and most especially since I'm having a bunch of work done on the house! [wry grin]

VALLEY CYCLING:
Even with the off and on rain, almost all the trails are riding very well. The ground has just been so dry, whatever we get just soaks in.

Remember - climb hard, ride the twisty stuff, wear your helmet, stay safe - and above all BE NICE.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Wilderness /n./ archaic word used to refer to the space that once existed between urban areas and which is now used as a proving ground for 4-wheel drive vehicles.
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