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After weeks of gorgeous weather we are FINALLY getting some much needed rain, mind you I'm not complaining. From what I understand this has so far been one of the driest Septembers on record! The trees have been feeling it and the grass is crunchy. The really nice thing is that this been a steady consistent rain that just soaking into the ground, not one of the torrential dumps that we have had so often this summer. 5 Stars...
Amazingly I did get out climbing once again this week. This time at Humphreys Ledge, with old friend Tom Boydston. I have only been over there once in the spring with Lovena, other than for some light bouldering. There was road work going on along West Side Rd, so we parked at the big pullout up the hill on the opposite side from the cliff. I suggested that we walk in through the hollow thinking, erroneously, that there was a trail that went uphill to get us near the Geriatric Walls. [sigh] Tho the hollow trail was quite good, we did had to thrash our way up through talus, bushes and downed trees ending at the slab left of the end of the Geriatric Walls. Well, it certainly was an adventure!
We walked right to High Steppin' (5.7), a climb Joe & Judy Perez and I put up in 2010. I led that one and Tom led Old Crow (5.9), one that I and the Perez's did also in 2010. Both were fun to revisit. We only had time for one more so we walked down a little to get on Joe & Judy's climb Gaggle Of Geese (5.8). Tom led this one, and as always the crux can be getting off the ground. Walking back down the trail I noticed that there was a big tree down in one place and a fair amount of debris here & there. Overall Humphreys doesn't seem to be getting as much use as it once had. Regardless, all in all great half day of five-fun climbing with a friend. Here's a few pictures:
PURPLE MOUNTAINS LIVE FREE OR DIE:
In this sequel to Purple Mountains, Jeremy returns to his roots in New Hampshire, revisiting the mountains that shaped him. Motivated to protect the places he loves, Jeremy embarks on a journey to bridge the political divide over climate change. He finds common ground with outdoor enthusiasts from all walks of life, understanding their hopes and fears while tackling the issue head-on—from the Mount Washington Valley to the unfrozen waters of Lake Winnipesaukee.
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
iffy
Standard Route
GREAT conditions
Dracula
IN & very fat
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
CATHEDRAL LEDGE CLEANUP AND FESTIVAL 9/29:
This weekend Flash Foxy is putting on a climbing festival in the Mount Washington Valley, and with them Friends of the Ledges will be hosting a stewardship event on Sunday, 9/29. Flash Foxy is a national organization hosting festivals, events, and spaces for women and genderqueer climbers, and we're psyched that they're back in town for a third year! In addition to three days of clinics, demos, and community celebration, Friends of the Ledges will be sharing an event at Cathedral involving the normal cliff cleanup and some significant trail projects. While it's in conjunction with Flash Foxy, everyone's welcome to this stewardship event!
* Meet at the Cathedral Ledge Picnic tables at 9:30am
* We'll work until 12:30 on a few trail projects including the rock steps leading to Ventilator and the Recompense retaining wall. We'll also have a large cleanup crew including both sides of Cathedral Ledge Road, the Bryce Path, and the summit.
* Bring work gloves, safety glasses if you're interested in smashing rocks(who isn't!?), plenty of water, and appropriate layers. We'll be working in a light rain if needed.
* There'll be some snacks provided by Arcteryx.
* Bring work gloves, sturdy shoes, plenty of water, appropriate layers.
MUSICAL NOTES:
This week is fairly slow, certainly by comparison to last week's 4 gig marathon. I played in Laconia at the Taylor Retirement Community on Wednesday and will be at Top Of The 9th in Fryeburg with Bruce Marshall on Saturday. We haven't been together in several months and playing with Bruce is always fun. And then next Tuesday, October 1, I'll be with my band on the Waterwheel Stage at the Fryeburg Fair from 5-8. I've done this for many years and it's always a GAS. The band has been playing a lot over the summer, so we will certainly rock out. October 4th we will be at Ledge Brewing,
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
