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There are some dark clouds up Valley today and I can't see Mt Washington. That said, the weather pundits are saying that there is apparently as much as ~3" of snow on the summit! There's even snow on the top of Killington. [YIKES] So is it time to get out the rock skis?
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ALPINIST MICHAEL GARDNER RIP:
Unfortunately he died in a fall attempting a new route on Jannu East’s immense North Face. I had only distantly heard of him. He was often spoken of as one of our top alpinists!
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
iffy
Standard Route
GREAT conditions
Dracula
IN & very fat
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
THE RUTH (GORGE):
When you say "The Ruth", everyone who knows Alaska or has any interest in climbing knows exactly what you mean. Tho when you see pictures of it, you might think that it's alpine valley in between some pretty major mountains. Recently a group of scientists have been working to quantify just how deep the gorge beneath the glacier is. Here's a pretty cool article about it...
MUSICAL NOTES:
I'm at the Majestic Cafe on Friday evening (10/11) with two very close and very musical friends; Jarrod Taylor on guitar and Craig Bryan on Drums. I play with these gentlemen pretty regularly in a wide variety of formats, but we don't often play trio gigs so this will be fun. The chosen tune choices range from ones by Billy Cobham to Stevie Ray Vaughn to Pat Metheny and as ever Carla Bley. The show starts at 7 and reservations are recommended.
BTW put November 3rd in your calendar. I'll be throwing a crazy big 77th birthday party at Tuckerman Brewing in Conway Village. My band will be playing, and we're bringing along a bunch of special guests. DON'T MISS IT...
VALLEY CYCLING:
Cross country trails are still in great shape PLUS there are 3 more days of downhill left at Cranmore. get it while you can folks...
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
