NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 11:30a on 07/04/22 - Temperature: 73.8 °F - Wind speed: 10.0 mph - Wind chill: 73.8 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.954 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 11 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Owl's Cliff: Left Cliff / The RGC (Roger Gagne Classic) (5.8+)
The RGC (Roger Gagne Classic)
Olga Mirkina (OM) on the third pitch traverse.
Directions:  From the flat boulder at the base of the corner crack of "Owl's Highway" step down to the left around the short bolted arete of "Smitty's Sport Route" and into a large left facing corner that is usually wet and mossy at the bottom. To the left is a series of more shallow, short corners and cracks. The furthest to the left, about 30 feet away is the original start of the RGC. The opening moves are a little gnarly, so most ascents now use the first pitch of "Owl's Highway" They both go to the same first anchor.
Description: The 4 pitch RGC (Roger Gagne Classic) is a superb 5.8+ route, that would be a great way to get to know the middle part of the cliff. It works it's way up and right across the wall, with great climbing and incredible positioning that will keep you focused and entertained while at a moderate grade.
    Pitch 1: Climb a short steep corner to gain a shallow right angling scoop that gets you up onto a ledge (gear and 2 bolts). Head right, following the easy but cool arching flake across the slab to the shared anchors. This is the original start. Alternatively, do the first pitch of "Owl's Highway" 5.8+ to the same anchors.

"Owl's Highway" is the corner crack that widens to a narrow chimney, above the flat boulder that you passed over on the way from the approach trail

    Pitch 2: Head straight up the crack about 15 feet, then traverse right following a seam for maybe 30-40 feet until you can head up flakes to a bolted anchor below the arching "Crack of the World" - a great pitch

    Pitch 3: Head up the flakes like you are doing "Crack of the World", but before the arch, look for a bolt protected traverse heading right. Balancy moves will get you over to the corner. Make sure you use slings well here to lesson rope drag. Continue traversing out the corner and pull around the arete, crossing the last pitch of "Owl Be Seeing You" which you could join as an alternative finish if the normal route looks wet. After pulling around the arete, continue traversing left, balancing with no hands as you shuffle your feet across a horizontal to a nice ledge. Make sure you protect your second as soon as you reach the ledge. Continue over to the anchor at the base of a pillar.

    Pitch 4: Layback up the hanging pillar/ flake to a bolted anchor and lower back down. From the 3rd pitch anchor you can get down with 2 rappels on a single rope, making use of the anchors of "Open Spaces"below. NOTE: often wet!

Gear: trad, normal NH rack to number 4 Camalot and a sprinkling of bolts, bolted anchors. You can use a bigger cam on the first pitch, but you don't really need it. A single 60m rope works fine.
Descent: rap the route
History:  2005 - David Quinn & partner


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