NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 7:29a on 07/03/22 - Temperature: 59.1 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 59.1 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.822 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 79 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Green's Cliff / I'm Still Here (5.10c)
Directions:  From the center of the Main Wall head left, past the Great Arch and take the trail that takes you out from the wall around and up the left end. Where the trail brings you back to the cliff, just to your left, above a bent birch tree you will see a line of bolts running up a slab to a headwall and a mattress sized flake under a roof. This is the start.
Description: Fun varied climbing on 2 pitches, with a great view.
    Pitch 1: Start about 25 feet right of a large yellowish brown, right facing corner with a roof. Step off the bent birch tree on to an easy slab and mantle up onto an angling rail to clip the first bolt (spot or stick clip) Continue up and left past 2 more bolts to a thin crux on a headwall (foot sequence) that gets you to the bottom right side of the "mattress" flake. Plug a cam under it and layback up the somewhat crumbly right side until you can plug another cam up under a small roof (sling), then reach left across the flake and escape up and left to a rail. Protect with gear, then step up and make a balancy clip that protects you moving off a cool pocket to a flake and more pockets. Belay at the 2 bolt anchor above the horizontal.

    Pitch 2: Head up and right (bolt) to gain a series of nice flakes that climb at moderate difficulty, with a few flexing a bit. Place your gear carefully and use runners to keep your rope from getting caught. Reach an overlap, clip a bolt and balance onto the slab by means of a razor sidepull (crux). 2 more bolts protect the interesting slab moves to the anchor.

Gear: Pitch one: 4 bolts and gear up to #1 (red) Camalot. Use the #1 in a pocket just before the mid anchor. Pitch 2: 4 bolts and small to mid cams and nuts. Use lots of shoulder length slings for the gear at the flakes. Be aware of possible expanding flakes when placing your gear on the second pitch.
Descent: Two raps down the route with a single 60M
History:  2010 - Dmitriy Shirokov and Mark Sprague


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