NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 7:29a on 07/03/22 - Temperature: 59.1 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 59.1 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.822 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 79 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Green's Cliff / Greenpeace (5.12)
Directions:  In the center of the wall, just right of where the approach trail drops you off
Description: This gem is a 200 foot, two pitch finger and hand crack that runs up the center of the wall.
    Pitch 1: A low technical crux leads to a stance and then wonderful pumpy jamming.

    Pitch 2: After the first belay a short steep corner leads to a bulge where the crack turns into pockets then returns and follows up a right facing shallow corner, eventually getting to a shake on a nice big rounded flake to the left. Step right; plug some good gear (finger tip sized grey Camalot) and work a tricky and committing sequence up and right to a few easier moves and the anchor. A New England classic!

Gear: A few bolts, nuts and cams up to Camalot #3, with doubles of the smaller cams up to the red #1 Camalot. Bring more if you are going to try to run the two pitches together. (has been done) If you have offset cams, you may be able to skip a bolt or two. Taping of your fingers and hands well recommended.
Descent: The belays are bolted, so you can get down with two raps with a single 60M.
History:  September 19,2010 - FA -Jamal Lee Elkin 10/2/01 clean aid, FFA 9/19/2010 Dmitriy Shirokov and Mark Sprague


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