NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 1:30a on 07/02/22 - Temperature: 66.6 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 66.6 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.696 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 58 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Green's Cliff / Green Party (5.11)
Directions:  The left hand side of the main face, 50 feet past the cairn for the trail to the far left, before you have to 3rd class to go further along the cliff base.
Description: A cool looking third pitch awaits an ascent above and to the right, that will bump the grade up. It has only been partially cleaned and will need some bolts. Do not place gear in the large flake that may need to be trundled.
    Pitch 1: The climb begins on a short easy 5.7 unprotected slab to gain a ledge, then a large flake system left of a small patch of pine trees. After passing the trees, diagonal up and right past a bolt, then back left along a thin arcing seam (5.9-) to some hand jamming and the first anchor.

    Pitch 2: From the belay, clip the bolt to the left and do a long reach left with thin feet (or dyno) to reach a good hold at the base of the big flake. Follow the flake up (hand to fist sized cams) to a short bolt protected headwall (crux) to gain a ledge. Mantle up to gain anchors to the right.

Gear: nuts and small to med cams, one bolt and bolted anchor
Descent: Both anchors are 1/2" SS Rawl bolts with quicklinks. Regular trad rack up to large fist sized. 1- 1/2" bolt on Pitch 1 and 3bolts on pitch 2, the top one placed by hand by the aiding party. Doubles of the mid to larger cams would be handy.
History:  August 20,2010 - FA with aid-Jamal Lee-Elkin, Tim Martel and Justin Preisendorfer, FFA- David Powers and Matt Elliott


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