Climbing Area Index / Crag Y / Sword Of Omens (5.11d)
|
| To the right of the large MODERN MATURITY/TRAPEZIUS corner system, a steep arete cuts through the overhangs. Begin in an open corner just below this arete, and right of the MODERN MATURITY start. |
Pitch 1: Climb the open corner to a ledge fifteen feet up. Then step right into a thin dihedral (fixed pin) at the base of the arete. Tricky climbing leads up this corner to a good stance. Just above this is a second stance, at a notch in the blade-sharp arete. A difficult sequence of moves continues up the overhanging arete, passing two more fixed pins. There is a thin hold on the left that requires gentle treatment, and solid hand jams at the very top. Belay at a wobbly pine tree 60', 5.11d
Pitch 2: Grunge climbing leads to the top. 60', 5.6
|
| Standard Rack
|
| rap the route |
| July 26,1987 - Jim Ewing and Larry Hamilton |
|
|
