NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Crag Y / Puff (5.9)
Directions:  This route goes up the thin crack system parallel to and just right of the arete which marks the left edge of the Decepticon Buttress.
Description: This route was first climbed with the birch-tree start by George Hurley and Randy Gagne on July 25, 1987. Jim Ewing, Larry Hamilton and Rich Baker added an awkward rock start which they named HUFF (5.10d) on July 3, 1988.
    Pitch 1: Start climbing up the white birch tree at the lower left edge of the Buttress. From a point about ten feet up in the tree, lean across and place protection in a good crack, then step onto the rock. Follow the thin finger cracks which are a foot or two right of the arete. At one point DRAGON CURVE comes in from the left and crosses this line. Belay on the low-angle area above the left side of the Buttress. 50', 5.9

    Pitch 2: An easy and indistinct groove leads in the same line up past a small pine tree and on to the top. 50', 5.4

Gear: Standard Rack
Descent: rap the route
History:  July 25,1987 - George Hurley and Randy Gagne


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