NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 8:29a on 07/03/22 - Temperature: 61.5 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 61.5 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.826 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 58 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Cathedral Ledge / Warlock (5.12c (5.10R))
Directions:  Same start as for BURNING BRIDGE.
Description: This long route initially used aid on every pitch, including an A4 section on leads 3 and 4. Pitches 3 and 4 contain excellent, sustained climbing, whereas the remainder of the route often gets ugly. If you want to do only the good stuff approach via BURNING BRIDGE or REMISSION, then rap after pitch 4.
    Pitch 1: Start as for BURNING BRIDGE, in an overhanging rotten groove a few yards right of REMISSION. Continue up this groove past twigs and dirt to an awkward exit over a bulge at its top. Easier and cleaner rock leads to the large ledge at the end of REMISSION's first pitch. 5.10

    Pitch 2: Traverse right on big blocks under a ceiling until it is possible to step up and mantle onto a lower-angled face. Go up this face to a good ledge, also on BURNING BRIDGE. 5.10

    Pitch 3: Climb the obvious right-angling corner above, past three bolts, to a sloping belay ledge (5.11d). This is the same as pitch 3 of BURNING BRIDGE.

    Pitch 4: Ascend the clean open corner above, going left at the top to a large sloping terrace. 5.12c

    Pitch 5: From the far left end of the terrace, unpleasant climbing leads up a crack and corner system past two old bolts, eventually joining REMISSION. 5.10 R

    Pitch 6: Scramble up the last section of the REMISSION chimney to the top. 5.4

Gear: standard rock rack
Descent: Walk off to the right down the climber's trail.
History:  October 2,1988 - Jim Ewing and Larry Hamilton made a number of attempts, adding two new protection bolts, before completing WARLOCK's first free ascent


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