Climbing Area Index / Cathedral Ledge / Tres Agujeros (5.12)
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| From the right bend in the road to Cathedral, hike the old logging road as if going to Whitehorse until you get to the large boulder. Continue a few hundred feet towards Whitehorse until a faint logging road appears on the right. Follow the road as it rises and doglegs back in the direction of Cathedral. At the very top of the road a small wall will appear on your left. There are other small undocumented outcroppings and boulder problems in the surrounding area. |
It takes a line between End of Days and Fingerlust (Jerry's Route). It follows three bolts straight up the face to big horizontal and a ledge, then continues straight up and slightly left past some pockets and two more bolts to anchors.
Note: Shorter people might want to prehang draws on the first three bolts to make the clips a bit easier, particularly at the second bolt. Do this by climbing End Of Days and swinging over while lowering. Also, use a long sling on the third bolt!
Pitch 1: Start by clipping the first bolt off the small pedestal at the base (stick clip may be necessary) and do a boulder problem using sharp crimps and small feet to a good flake/finger lock. Make a move off of this to clip the second bolt, then do another boulder problem to a decent sloper up and right. Another move or two lead to a good hold and the third bolt on the left
You can get a no-hands rest in the slot, then continue up to the fourth bolt. Some good feet and a sidepull lead to the last bolt, from which you follow several pockets to the anchor. A sneaky highstep out right can take the sting out this section. Depending on how pumped you are, it may be easier to top out the route, then clip the chains...
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| standard rack
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| rappel or walk off |
| May 27,2012 - Matt Desenberg & Chris Magness |
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