NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 12:00a on 07/01/22 - Temperature: 58.0 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 58.0 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.990 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 55 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Cathedral Ledge / Tres Agujeros (5.12)
Directions:  From the right bend in the road to Cathedral, hike the old logging road as if going to Whitehorse until you get to the large boulder. Continue a few hundred feet towards Whitehorse until a faint logging road appears on the right. Follow the road as it rises and doglegs back in the direction of Cathedral. At the very top of the road a small wall will appear on your left. There are other small undocumented outcroppings and boulder problems in the surrounding area.
Description: It takes a line between End of Days and Fingerlust (Jerry's Route). It follows three bolts straight up the face to big horizontal and a ledge, then continues straight up and slightly left past some pockets and two more bolts to anchors.

Note: Shorter people might want to prehang draws on the first three bolts to make the clips a bit easier, particularly at the second bolt. Do this by climbing End Of Days and swinging over while lowering. Also, use a long sling on the third bolt!
    Pitch 1: Start by clipping the first bolt off the small pedestal at the base (stick clip may be necessary) and do a boulder problem using sharp crimps and small feet to a good flake/finger lock. Make a move off of this to clip the second bolt, then do another boulder problem to a decent sloper up and right. Another move or two lead to a good hold and the third bolt on the left You can get a no-hands rest in the slot, then continue up to the fourth bolt. Some good feet and a sidepull lead to the last bolt, from which you follow several pockets to the anchor. A sneaky highstep out right can take the sting out this section. Depending on how pumped you are, it may be easier to top out the route, then clip the chains...

Gear: standard rack
Descent: rappel or walk off
History:  May 27,2012 - Matt Desenberg & Chris Magness


NEClimbs on Facebook
NEClimbs on Facebook
RSS Reader Feed
RSS Feed for NEClimbs, the New England rock and ice climbing resource
Savage Mountain Gear
The ACCESS Fund, Protect America's Climbing
Friends Of The Ledges
International Mountain Equipment
Equinox Guiding Service LLC
the American Alpine Club
Mooney Mountain Guides
International Mountain Climbing School
NorthEast Mountaineering
Mount Washington Valley Climbers Cooperative
Sponsors & Donors
View Current List