NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 12:30a on 07/01/22 - Temperature: 57.8 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 57.8 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.984 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 55 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / North Bald Cap / Ingy's Ice Cream (5.7)
Ingy's Ice Cream
Photo by Dave Gougan
Directions:  Look for a white slab near the lowest section of the cliff. That is October Sundae. Ingy's starts 25' right and back left up a ramp to the start at a slab that's 30' up in the woods.
    Pitch 1: Up the easy slab to break out onto the main face above. Continue straight up to a gear belay below a continuing flake system. 60meters

    Pitch 2: Climb the flake system straight above passing the right side of a large tree island and arching back left to a gear belay in rust colored rock. 60 meters

    Pitch 3: Move left and climb a beautiful white flake forming the right side of the central groove. Layback the flake to the end and move right up a buttress and finish with a quartz dike to a gear belay and ledge. 5.7 60 meters.

    Part of this pitch was previously climbed by Jack Dorsey and Chuck Woodman as a variation to October Sundae.

    Pitch 4: Move left off the ledge and go up the center of the white slab above. Starting with a couple of hollow flakes then passing a bolt at the swell. The slab eases bringing you to a blocky gear belay. 5.7 55 meters

    Pitch 5: Continue up to the grey blocky headwall above and belay in the woods. 60 meters Descent. Walk climbers left 25 feet to the rappel anchors on October Sundae. 5 double rope raps brings you down to the base.

Gear: standard rack & 2 ropes
Descent: rappel the route with 2 ropes
History:  September 14,2012 - Dave Gougen and Dick Norlin


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