NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 12:30a on 07/01/22 - Temperature: 57.8 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 57.8 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.984 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 55 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Cathedral Ledge / Angel's Freeway (5.11d)
Directions:  Start beneath ABRAKADABRA, 25 feet right of INTIMIDATION.
Description: This excellent, sustained freeclimb is a combination of new, old, and newly freed pitches. Starting on ABRAKADABRA, it crosses REPENTANCE, and finishes up the now-free final two pitches of the aid route ANGELíS HIGHWAY.
    Pitch 1: Climb the first pitch of ABRAKADABRA, the steep stemming corner just right of INTIMIDATIONís first pitch. Belay at a cold shut anchor on the ledge at the cornerís top.80í 5.11

    Pitch 2: Traverse directly right fifteen feet on the sloping ledge, and climb a handcrack in the right-diagonalling corner that rises off the right end of the ledge. At itís top, step across REPENTANCE and clip the bolt visible up and right (on REALITY CHECK). Freeclimb the slab 6 feet left of the bolt (5.10), then traverse back right to the double ring anchor on the top of the first pitch of ANGELíS HIGHWAY. 70í 5.10

    Pitch 3: Using a new variation around the headwall bolt ladder, freeclimb the line of ANGEL'S HIGHWAY: pad up a slab to a bolt, then jam and layback up the slim right-facing corner past four pins (5.11+) to a sloping ledge. Clip the new bolt on the bolt ladder above, then step down and traverse left 15 feet to where you can pull up onto some small angular holds that lead up and right to a bolt (5.8 R). Pull past the bolt (5.11-) and hand traverse right on the top of the block to a belay (pins, gear) at a small stance at the base of the flaring corner (back on ANGELíS HIGHWAY). 80í 5.11+ (5.8 R)

    Pitch 4: Freeclimb the steep, technical crack on ANGELíS HIGHWAY, passing three pins at itís top, to a double ring anchor on the ledge. 40' 5.11+

    Pitch 5: Climb the left hand corner to a ledge; continue up the next corner to a slab and eventually the top of the cliff. 100í 5.8

Gear: standard rack
History:  June 4,1999 - Swapping leads, Jason Seaver and AJ Jones made the first ascent of the entire route on June 4, 1999. This was also the first free ascent of the second pitch of ANGELís HIGHWAY (broken up into two pitches for this route), done just two days shy of the 27th anniversary of its first ascent (June 6th, 1972).


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