NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 2:29a on 07/05/22 - Temperature: 55.4 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 55.4 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.974 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 62 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Rainbow Slabs / The Pillars of Dickulese (5.6)
Directions:  Located just to the left of the Height of Land and goes up wonderful rock between Wit's End and Lucky Charms. Starts on the ground.
Description: This is a 2 pitch route that is bolted but also requires some gear. All bolts but one were placed free (hand drilled), on lead and put in with an eye towards the abilities of a 5.6 leader so that the route is not way run out. It goes past a unique feature - 2 vertical solution pillars (fairly small) from which the route gets its name.
    Pitch 1: 20 feet right of a tree leaning against the bottom of the cliff, climb past a bolt 10 feet off the ground. Stay 10 feet right of vegetation, past a pin to near the right hand end of the ledge that is the start of routes further left. Up blocky holds past the "pillars" to a bolt. Trend right and up a textured slab past flakes to a double bolt anchor. 130 feet, 5.6

    Pitch 2: Straight up beautiful textured rock to a bolt and up to the overlap above. Overcome the overlap at its lowest point with a crack that will accept a Friend. 130 feet, 5.3

Gear: standard rack
Descent: Rap with double ropes from trees.
History:  September 11,1998 -  Dick Traverse, Mike Friedland


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