Climbing Area Index / Cathedral Ledge / Bamboozled (5.13a 5.11R)
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| Traverse Left from the start of Camber (Or Better yet Rap Down) To a Bolt/Piton belay below the snaking white stripe. |
Certainly one of the most committing climbs on the cliff. A tour de force in modern trad climbing. You might want to consider toproping it before you go for the redpoint!
Pitch 1: Climb up above the belay on 5.9R flakes to a narrow ledge. Clip pins on the ledge and traverse to the left. Off the left side of the ledge make a thin move to reach a crack up and left (5.10R) and place gear here. (wires and TCUís). Work straight up to a bolt then make the crux moves 5.13- higher working left into a dish system. Once over the bulge climb easy terrain to a steepening headwall (cams) make 5.10R moves to gain the last bulge(bolt) and topout.
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| wires, tcu's and draws
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| Belay on the lip with cams (or using your fixed rap rope). Walk off. |
| September 2001 - Tim Kemple |
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