NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 7:29a on 07/03/22 - Temperature: 59.1 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 59.1 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.822 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 79 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Cathedral Ledge / Bamboozled (5.13a  5.11R)
Directions:  Traverse Left from the start of Camber (Or Better yet Rap Down) To a Bolt/Piton belay below the snaking white stripe.
Description: Certainly one of the most committing climbs on the cliff. A tour de force in modern trad climbing. You might want to consider toproping it before you go for the redpoint!
    Pitch 1: Climb up above the belay on 5.9R flakes to a narrow ledge. Clip pins on the ledge and traverse to the left. Off the left side of the ledge make a thin move to reach a crack up and left (5.10R) and place gear here. (wires and TCUís). Work straight up to a bolt then make the crux moves 5.13- higher working left into a dish system. Once over the bulge climb easy terrain to a steepening headwall (cams) make 5.10R moves to gain the last bulge(bolt) and topout.

Gear: wires, tcu's and draws
Descent: Belay on the lip with cams (or using your fixed rap rope). Walk off.
History:  September 2001 - Tim Kemple


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